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Uinta Mountains
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Castle Lake 
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Uinta Mountains 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 18, 2006

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Sport climbing doesn't get much better.

Description 

The Uinta Mountains are a relatively high elevation locale away from the summer heat in the valleys. It consists of steep horizontally cracked quartzite. A newcomer to the climbing scene, the Unita's have evolved into a popular sport climber's destination.


Getting There 

From SLC, take I-80 east to exit 148. Take US-40 toward Vernal for 3.8 miles. Exit 4 will be UT-248. Take a left and drive for 11.4 miles. Turn left onto UT-32 (S. Main St.) in Kamas. Drive .2 miles then turn right onto UT-150 (E. Center St. (Mirror Lake Scenic Byway)).

Expect 1 hr. and 20 min. from SLC.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Uinta Mountains:
Fear of Gear   5.7     Trad   Stone Garden
Vulgaria   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cliff Lake
Lake Effect   5.9     Trad, Sport, 50 feet   Cliff Lake
Peace Treaty   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Soak It Insideher   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   Wall Of Tiers
Black Elk   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Sacred Hoop   5.10a     Sport, 60 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Wish You Were Here   5.10b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Moosehorn : The Moore Wall
The Legend   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Native Utard   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Wall Of Tiers
Scalp Fest   5.10d     Sport, 60 feet   Ruth Lake : Last Stand Wall
The Shield   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Wall Of Tiers
Moon Stone   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Dream Catcher   5.11c     Sport   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Wind Walker   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Dog Man   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall
Sessions   5.12a     Sport   Stone Garden
Good Medicine   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Warrior Without a Cause   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall
Ghost Dance   5.12b     Sport, 40 feet   Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area
Browse More Classics in Uinta Mountains

Featured Route For Uinta Mountains
The fun stuff

Dog Man 5.11d  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Warrior Wall
Bouldery start leads to a no hands rest, then a tricky move to get on the face above. Stellar!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Uinta Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
King's Peak, the highest point in Utah, along with its lofty neighbors.  Photo taken from ridge between Red Castle and Wilson Peak.  Great view of the lakes from here (not pictured).

King's Peak, the highest point in Utah, along with...

Red Castle from below Red Castle Lake.  A long way to pack your rack, near-constant rock fall, yet a rumor exists that it has been climbed!

Red Castle from below Red Castle Lake. A long way...

Ostler Peak from Ostler Meadow.  My dad and brothers on an Independence Day backpacking trip.

Ostler Peak from Ostler Meadow. My dad and brothe...

Shot from camping area, believe that's Blady in the background or close to it.

Shot from camping area, believe that's Blady in th...

The ever roaming moose!

The ever roaming moose!

Another classic day!

Another classic day!

Small pond along the way.

Small pond along the way.

Talk about views!

Talk about views!

dusk at ruth lake

dusk at ruth lake

morning at ruth

morning at ruth

Is this is how they climb in columbia? Paul @ Notch Lake.

Is this is how they climb in columbia? Paul @ Notc...

Photo by Tyler Phillips <br /> <br />

Photo by Tyler Phillips



Another fine view in the Uintas.

Another fine view in the Uintas.

2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Eddies High, Hayden Peak.

2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Ed...

Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayden peak looking snowy in the background.

Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayde...

Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayden Peak. Nice storm clouds! Got rained out big time shortly after this photo was taken. <br /> <br />

Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayde...

3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.

3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Ha...

2nd pitch of Sun & Steel 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.

2nd pitch of Sun & Steel 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Hay...

High Uintas

High Uintas

crack in the stack

crack in the stack


Comments on Uinta Mountains Add Comment
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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 11, 2007

Uinta Rock, by Nathan Smith and Paul Tusting, is a fantastic resource for those interested in climbing along the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway. Complete with photographic topos, maps to the crags, scenic action photos and helpful information for local services, this guide is a passport to some super summer climbing, away from the heat and crowds.

By Josh M.
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2009

What's the camping scene like here? Haven't checked the Uinta Rock guide, but is there any nearby? Parking? Thanks!

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2010

Could anyone comment on the quality of the climbing in the Uintas? Is it road trip worthy? Thanks!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2010

I wouldn't road trip there from the East Coast, but from Boulder it is certainly worth a 3-4 day weekend.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2010

What are the best walls and where is the best camping? Thanks!

By Baylord
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Jul 24, 2010

I was up there for a day on the 21st of july it was awesome, the weather was nice and the routes were great too.

By J Geisler
Aug 16, 2012

2012 SLCA Adopt-A-Crag Volunteer Sign-up

Event Date: Rain or Shine, Saturday August 18, 2012
Time: 9:00 AM, please car pool
Place: Ruth Lake Parking Lot, Uintas, UT

The SLCA is partnering with the Access Fund Conservation Crew, American Alpine Club, US Forest Service, Liberty Mountain, Black Diamon, Petzl, The Front Climbing Club and Backcountry.com for the Ruth Lake Adopt-A-Crag. Thank you for volunteering!

Please be prepared for mountain weather conditions, which are unpredictable and subject to rapid change. Please bring lunch and plenty of water. Our projects require the use of tools, which should be accompanied by a certain type of attire for your safety and that of others around you. Listed below are items to wear or bring to ensure your volunteer experience is a positive one.
Required:
• Long Pants
• Boots (sturdiest shoes possible, with closed-toe, no sandals!)
• Sunglasses or other eye protection
• Lunch / Water (2 - 3 quarts)
• Leather Gloves
Suggested:
• Sunscreen
• Rain gear
• Hat
• Extra layers

Be prepared for arduous work at 10,500 feet and lasting up to 5 hours. All personal items must be carried by each individual in a backpack. If you pack it in, please pack it out. Also, dehydration is a real concern during the summer months. Please bring enough water to last the entire length of service. Please also note that most work on trails takes place at high elevations. Please come prepared with an Epi pen if you are allergic to stings, and please also notify work leaders of any special health or medical considerations when you arrive on site.

Meet us at 9:00 AM at the parking lot at the Ruth Lake parking lot at about mile marker 35 which is 28.8 miles from the Fee Area booth near Kamas. Parking passes will be provided by the US Forest Service.

The Access Fund Conservation Crew will lead volunteers to build natural rock steps up the eroding banks at the base of these walls, making this crag more sustainable and enjoyable.

After the work is done, please enjoy a BBQ provided American Alpine Club, a raffle and climbing. Free camping is available Saturday night, water is not available but there will be bathrooms.

If you have questions, send email to slca@saltlakeclimbers.org.

We appreciate your support!

Adopt a Crag!
Adopt a Crag!
Submitted By: J Geisler on Aug 16, 2012

By Bastian
Aug 29, 2012

An update for directions.

Take exit 146 instead of 148.

Awesome place to climb. Went up 8/27.