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Area 13 - Left Side
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Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen S 
Wild Will's Arete S 

Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Alan Hirahara, late 90s
Page Views: 4,508
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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"Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth and Be a Qu...


This excellent 5.7, climbs up stacked blocks, then step left on to an arete, and follow it to the anchors.


Nine bolts, double mussy hook anchor

Photos of Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen Slideshow Add Photo
Justin Colville on UFMCtMBaQ
Justin Colville on UFMCtMBaQ
Climbing the arete
Climbing the arete
euan nearing the top
euan nearing the top

Comments on Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen Add Comment
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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What up Alan! I lived in Mammoth for years, we met through Scott a couple times, I love the name of this climb! you've obviously been drinking at the clock tower once or twice! LOL... bolting that cliff was great, gives a great place to bring all the "queens" climbing after drunken promises...
By Chase Roskos
From: Golden, CO
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is excellent. Best 5.7 I've climbed yet. If you TRing and enjoy the top, try a direct start.
By splitclimber
May 20, 2010

the spring/hook is broken on the right mussy hook on this route.

otherwise a super fun climb.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Aug 17, 2010

The 3rd and 5th hangers are loose and spin. It also looks like there was a bolt inbetween the 3rd and 4th that pulled out. And someone left a biner at the top on the quicklink with the broken mussy. Super fun route and pretty good exposure on the arÍte.
By C Miller
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Long, exposed and lots of fun - get on it!
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 20, 2012

Haha! That biner is still up there to back the broken mussy hook. It is showing signs of wear.
By kimballistic
From: San Jose, CA
May 15, 2013

Don't climb this without checking out the anchors with some binoculars. As of April 2013, both mussy hooks were broken and the left-behind biner looked pretty sketchy. We told some locals who said they knew a guy who could fix this. Hopefully they passed on the message! Have fun and stay safe.
By Vit
Jul 11, 2013

Both mussy hooks are good as of July 2013. A few spinners - 5th, 7th and 8th I think.
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