UFO is a cool little route that will test your ability to place tiny pro and then climb kind of insecure slab past it.
Mantle up to a slight right-facing dihedral/flake. Head up this feature with easy liebacking and fairly good pro (other than slightly crumbly rock). Near the top of the dihedral, double check to make sure you have good pro, then head up and right using a very thin seam for pro. Take your time to get the best pro that you can here, as the pro is tiny and takes some fiddling, and the climbing is kind of insecure. Keep heading up the seam as the pro gets better. The anchors are on a small ledge about 60 feet up.
This is in the center of the north face of Area 51. Look for a right-facing flake that heads up to a tiny seam.
A good selection of small RPs as well as nuts and small cams from micro to #0.5 Camalot or so. Be careful arranging and slinging your pro so that the RPs don't get pulled out in a fall.
I gave this a PG-13 rating as the average climber breaking into 10a will probably have a hard time placing adequate pro through the crux.
Sep 13, 2011
Wow, I said "pro" 9 times. Apparently I was worried about the pro when I climbed it....
|By Justin Compton|
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Pretty straightforward climb, thin crack and it will test your balance, but it's all there! The pro is good, 1" and under....