Uberschmidt is the route immediately left of Tarantula and can be identified by a large roof one third of the way up. The climb breaches the center of the roof.
Though intimidating from the ground, Uberschmidt climbs very well, as a bouldery, cut-your-feet sequence sees you over the roof. The climbing on the upper face eases considerably. Note: While pulling the roof, the right wall is definitely off. Using it makes this climb about 5.11.
Much easier and more enjoyable (in my opinion) than the nightmare slab of Sepsen Wall, Uberschmidt deserves more traffic.
I tried this route a few years ago and was shut out of the top -- which it seems is not the hard part. I must have missed a foothold, or my shoes sucked. The next year i saw two locals run up it like it was a day hike. The bottom is really enjoyable. Just a playground of sweet bouldering action! I won't venture a guess at the rating till I try the upper part again with better shoes and glasses.
By Tradoholic Jun 29, 2009 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a R
5.9ish climbing, except for pulling that damn roof! I couldn't find the foot I needed, am I too tall? If it's 11c, I'm missing something.
By Tradoholic Aug 22, 2009 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a R
Yea, I see how you guys could call this 11c. I think that a person who boulders V5 or higher or climbs harder 12's and 13's or 14's (Famous "Winsonsinite" Jay Knower) would find the one hard move on this easy but 12's being around my limit I think it would be fair to call it 12a. Lets compromise at 11d. A #000 C3 gives decent protection to the crux and there are good placements above albeit in suspect rock with a solid run-out to the top. Long live trad climbing.