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Stone Mountain South Face
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Unsorted Routes:

U Slot 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,637
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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A good view of the arete/flake before the slight r...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of a number of ways to get to the Tree Ledge for the big climbs, this is an interesting route in its own right. Be ready for some of that hairy Stone Mountain runout. A good warmup for things to come!

Starting up a left-facing corner and hand crack, the climbing is well protected until you're about two-thirds of the way up. From there, a 30-40' runout section will get you to a shallow overhang, where you can thankfully place a cam before pulling the balancy move onto more friction to a short finish at bolted rap anchors on the Tree Ledge.


Location 

Starts just above the boulder field at the base of the mountain, about 30' right of Block Route. Scramble up to a left-facing corner with trees at the base. You'll need two ropes to rap down.


Protection 

Medium gear; bolted anchors at the top.



Photos of U Slot Slideshow Add Photo
The rope shows the basic line you want to take when climbing u-slot. Note the black center mark on my 70m rope. It's a good 20 to 30 feet up.
BETA PHOTO: The rope shows the basic line you want to take whe...
The base of Stone Mountain, these are some of the routes to the Tree Ledge.
BETA PHOTO: The base of Stone Mountain, these are some of the ...
Another line up U-Slot. A bit run out between the top of the arete/corner and the roof but there's at least two bomber good pieces before you pull through the slot and one just below the overlap.
BETA PHOTO: Another line up U-Slot. A bit run out between the ...
Plugging a piece before pulling the "slot".
Plugging a piece before pulling the "slot".
Comments on U Slot Add Comment
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By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 26, 2007

Not knowing where the route actually went, I aimed up and left from the starting crack toward what I thought looked like a "U" slot in the overlap. I plugged a cam below and left of the notch and pulled the overlap with a big high-step and a good left-hand crimp. A bit heady and with a bad slab fall if you blow that move, this variation isn't any harder than the 5.8 rating given the standard route.

By George Heib
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

Selected climbs says to use the arete (sp) and climb that up and then straight to the lower portion of the overlap. We used the dihedral and protected there before heading up. There is a very small u shape on the left side of the main block. It makes the route more difficult and I really thing the run out brings it very close to a ground fall if you don't protect in the narrow water groove. For a 5.7 it is a very heady runout and I don't think many people that know much about slab should have any business on this route's runout. I honestly think one bolt in between would make this a much more enjoyable classic climb, but again, if you go straight up the feet are there and it can protect after the runout. I think I slipped once on the whole route but wow this was a very big wake up and introduction to Stone. So much that our group realized this was a different kind of slab as supposed to LG and we thought it best to rap after this climb to train up a bit more. What a fun climb though and a great view from the belay station. That one little bolt would put this as a super classic in my book, but then again, almost ever starting route at the base's first bolt is what: 30-35ft up. Gotta love NC's very unique ethics.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 20, 2011

Nice Climb and good way to access tree ledge. There are numerous ways to climb this route but taking the low line, using the crack, seems to be the easiest and offers the most pro. Do not let the mantle onto the large ledge near the top freak you out of this line because it protects like non other!

  • I think you need to link up two ropes if you want to attempt a standard TR*

By cmscheip
Dec 13, 2011

Mike you are absolutely right, you need two ropes if you want to set up TR or rappel down from the tree/anchors.

I have made this mistake before :/

By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Jan 29, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Learned today if you want to climb the route in the pic to the right of the tree on top of the traditional line bring some tri-cams and cams for flared cracks. Dont let the line pull you off to the left too far much like the guy in the pic.

By Jake Jones
From: The Eastern Flatlands
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Flexibility helps to get a right foot up on the sharp part of the slot. I thrutched it up there doing kind of a lieback to get a toe up and then rocked my weight onto it. Easy runout to the closest solid tree to build a belay. For a less heady slab lead, but a slightly harder move onto the roof/bulge, try Block route to the left. I didn't find this route to be PG13 probably because I had some Metolius offsets. I think the yellow/orange 2/3 went in the shallow flaring crack that leads you to the bulge. Without protecting that crack, it could be PG13 but it is very protectable. Plenty of pro off the ground and I don't think I went more than 20ft or so without placing a piece. That's not PG13 for Stone- unless you're counting the distance from the "crux" to the closest tree to belay from which is about 5.3.