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Looney Tunes 
Typsy Gypsy 

Typsy Gypsy 

5.12+

   
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Type: Sport, 4 pitches, 600 feet
Consensus: 5.12+ [details]
FA: J.Foley M.Miner
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Jfoley on Jan 24, 2009

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Tipsy Gypsy finishes up the gray streak out of the...

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As of Dec 2008 this is the left most route up the big wall of Khao Kom and the only route to ascend to the top of this expansive formation. The first pitch starts out a bit contrived and loose,but finishes well in a nice belay cave(6c+). The 2nd pitch has a reachy crux off the anchor then climbs good stone up steep rock with big holds to a second belay cave(7a+). Pitch 3 has a thin crux near the top and finishes on a big ledge(7b).Pitch four stars in a wild overhanging steming corner and continues up the grey streak and finishes just left of the true summit of this formation(7b+). Stronger parties can combine pitches two and three.


Location 

This is currently the only route up the far left side of this big wall.Located at the top of the approach "climb"


Protection 

Titanium bolts.