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A tough face start leads to the left end of the ledge. From the ledge clip the 5th bolt on your left and back-clean the 4th one to avoid rope drag. Climb sustained moves leading to a nice finger crack. After the crack ends, head left towards the anchor.
On the left end of the main cliff locate the route with black hangers right of Idoprofen.
6 bolts and gear up to 0.5 BD. The first bolt can be "stick-clipped" by simply holding on to the fixed nylon rope.
Dom on the start of his new route
After cleaning the route...