Twofers 5.8
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Marga Powell getting in position to turn the roof.
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Description A neat roof problem. Start on the left side of the gully, below the obvious roof about 35 feet up. Scramble up to the left corner of the roof, layback, reach, and move out through the left corner. Continue up directly above the roof.
Protection Look for the two nice trees, and a 1' wide slot drops the rope perfectly.
Under a roof.
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BETA PHOTO: Per M.Morley:
1 - I, Robot
2 - Are We Not Men
3 -...
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poor photo quality but shows DC after grabbing hid...
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Escaping the roof.
Photo by Eva R.
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Eva pulling the roof.
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At the roof.
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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001
| When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead but once you find it the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (Whats with the piton about 2 feet from the top ? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear ? Huh |
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 6, 2002
| What a great challenge for the Gym climber gone outside. I took a few gym climbers up today and found ourselves (among many others) with a great end of the day climb. The roof could be rated greater than an 8 if you were to heel hook to the right, however, I found it much more enjoyable to navigate the corner with a smooth crawl up the opposing face while grasping the great hold just above the roof. The slab directly above the roof is really thin for slab... just the way we like it. Jeff Burley |
By DanMoore
Jun 8, 2005
rating: 5.7+
| I just did this yesterday. Didn't feel quite like 5.8, but still super fun. However, I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof. |
By Tradsplatter
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.7+
| Led this enjoyable route for first time on beautiful fall day, yesterday. This climb did not feel like a 5.8 to me - got stung by a bee as soon as pulled over the roof, so maybe this adds a half grade of difficulty! Roof is a fun little puzzle & easily protectable. There are two nut placements in the crack directly above the roof and at least one hex left and above if you look around for it. |
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 9, 2008
rating: 5.8
| I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.
Plenty of pro after you turn the roof, don't hesitate to lead this one. Wasn't even runout at all. |
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, UK
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.8-
| Good fun! Good pro! Good good! |
By Eben Daggett
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2012
| Came to this route after 2 or 3 years of absence... can't believe that yellow (#2 BD?) cam is still stuck under the roof. I would have thought some super industrious college student would have gotten that out by now. |
By Jeff McLeod
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2012
| Just climbed it today & there was no bird nest that I could see. Super fun. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 30, 2013
| Fun route! Had to take my helmet off in order to get my head past the roof. |
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