|Early Wall - Left End
Some people will really hate this route, and others will love it. This thought-provoking route has everything except straight-down pulling. Begin with a 3rd class scramble to reach a large scoopy slab covered with yellow-green lichen. At the 2nd bolt things get interesting with some fun slab moves and mantels that lead to some unsatisfying slopey pockets and the first boulder problem, involving tricky feet and balance. Mantel on up to a ledge below the crux where two options are possible. One way heads left along a heavily chalked flake, and the other goes right on positive sidepulls and gastons. Either way some positive crimps lead back toward the bolt line and some good holds. Continue for 2 more bolts on more straight-forward terrain to the anchor.
The furthest right route on the Left end of Early Wall.
7 bolts, 2 BA.
|By Ken Kisiel|
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The movement and stone on the lower half of this route is great. The holds on this portion are very comfortable but spaced and are generally the only feature available. Don't miss the bomber one finger pocket pulling the move between 2nd and third bolt.