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Two weeks in Colorado
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By liam.jackson
Aug 1, 2014
We're travelling the States and have about two more weeks in Colorado before we leave. I'm interested in any advice on classic routes to do here before leaving. In Fort Collins at the moment, but we are happy to move around. We have a van (at least for now, we are trying to sell it, see for sale forum!).

We climb around 5.9/10a sport. 5.8/5.9 trad, but trad gear is reliant on using friends (which is a possibility). I have a decent amount of mountaineering experience (but no gear with me).

Interested in any hints as to:

- Classic 14ers in the state which may be a good option this time of year?

- Classic long sport or trad lines within our grade - the longer the climb, the better.

- Classic crags with a good collection of great climbs that would be an option this time of year.

- Even classic two or three day hikes, it would be good to 'stretch the legs'.

Any advice appreciated, cheers!


By Andy Nelson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 1, 2014
another day in the park
If your in Fort Collins, it's hard to beat the options near Estes Park. Longs Peak is certainly a classic 14er, and probably the best IMO of all the Front Range 14ers. Lumpy Ridge contains "long" (multi-pitch) routes - a few notable climbs include Kor's Flake, The Pear Buttress, and J Crack. Some objectives in Rocky Mountain NP are longer and with more alpine conditions: Spearhead, Sharkstooth, Petit Grepon, etc. All of these have moderate routes on them.

I don't crag climb a lot, so I'm not too good there.

A few areas to look at for long hikes/backpacking around Northern Colorado are: Rawah Wilderness, anything in the Mummy Range accessed via Estes or from the North via Pingree Park (free parking and entrance), Never Summer and Neota Wilderness areas.

By Adrian Hill
Aug 2, 2014
Drive into Wyoming (about 4 hours) and climb Devil's Tower.
Stay in the shade, and you'll have a great time.
Memorable summit. Easiest routes are around 5.7; range of
excellent 5.9 routes to go at that will get you to the summit.
I think you'll need to scrounge a trad rack though.

By liam.jackson
Aug 7, 2014
Thanks guys for your ideas. We climbed at El Dorado & Lumpy, so feel like we at least made an effort to visit some classic crags around here!

By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Aug 7, 2014
Bunny pancake
IN RMNP - All can be done in a day although spearhead is one long ass day. The bivy is awesome if you are up for that.
Petit Gripon 5.8 south face
Spearhead 5.6 North Face
Hallet's Peak Culp Bossier 5.8 - easiest approach

Mainliner Sundance 5.9
Grapevine Sundance 5.8
Pear Buttress Book 5.8
Loose Ends Book 5.9 (one of the best around)
Melvins Wheel Book 5.8

Longs Peak (long long day 14 miles round trp start early)
Greys and Torreys - easiest 14ers in the front range. you can do both
Evans - drive up or walk up
Bierstadt - 3 mile round trip


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