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Two ways to jug, which way is better?
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Mar 21, 2013
Me
What is your preferred method? And why? Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
I am convinced that a modified grigri method is more efficient. Enlighten me! Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
Moss
For freehanging jugs, Froggy style is the most efficient way to go.

mountainproject.com/v/big_wall...
Jason Todd
From Cody, WY
Joined Apr 21, 2012
506 points
Mar 21, 2013
I use two hands, works great for me Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Mar 21, 2013
Marla J wrote:
What is your preferred method? And why?


I prefer one hand on each jug and gently squeeze.
But it really is up to you which method works for you weather 1 jumar+grigri or 2 jumars. Practice and more practice or long routes.
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
Jeff J wrote:
I prefer one hand on each jug and gently squeeze. But it really is up to you which method works for you weather 1 jumar+grigri or 2 jumars. Practice and more practice or long routes.

Get a freakin life..and i like 1 jumar and 1 gri gri. Do i really need a chest harness? My boyfriend redirected the pull up on gri side of rope up with a biner and into a pull down,position from jumar so its easier to use with both hands pulling down.
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
Jeff J wrote:
I prefer one hand on each jug and gently squeeze. But it really is up to you which method works for you weather 1 jumar+grigri or 2 jumars. Practice and more practice or long routes.

Get a freakin life..and i like 1 jumar and 1 gri gri. Do i really need a chest harness? My boyfriend redirected the pull up on gri side of rope up with a biner and into a pull down,position from jumar so its easier to use with both hands pulling down.
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
Buff Johnson wrote:
I use two hands, works great for me

Non climber obviously!
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Administrator
Mar 21, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Marla J wrote:
Non climber obviously!


I haven't seen very many people using one ascender and a GriGri on big walls and aid routes. I think the standard is pretty much the two ascender method for these types of routes. It is more efficient if you know what you're doing and it's rigged correctly.

For other purposes that you would use ascending, say, equipping a route, or head pointing a route to figure gear out, etc.- single pitch predominantly, the GriGri and ascender method works well. This is mostly because you can go up and rap down relatively easily without doing a bunch of reconfiguration.

So there's your answer.

Of course, like anything else, you can become really efficient at something if you do it enough.

Perhaps you should not be so quick to label someone a non-climber, until you can answer questions for yourself that the vast majority of "climbers" can.

Either that, or just stay away from where you're clearly not wanted. What number profile is this you're using now? Are you up to a dozen yet?
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,005 points
Mar 21, 2013
Marla J wrote:
Non climber obviously!


Please tell us more how you are such a hardcore climber doing those 5.7 leads and v3 bolders.

Do we have a possible Elanor resurgence?
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
Jake Jones wrote:
I haven't seen very many people using one ascender and a GriGri on big walls and aid routes. I think the standard is pretty much the two ascender method for these types of routes. It is more efficient if you know what you're doing and it's rigged correctly. For other purposes that you would use ascending, say, equipping a route, or head pointing a route to figure gear out, etc.- single pitch predominantly, the GriGri and ascender method works well. This is mostly because you can go up and rap down relatively easily without doing a bunch of reconfiguration. So there's your answer. Of course, like anything else, you can become really efficient at something if you do it enough. Perhaps you should not be so quick to label someone a non-climber, until you can answer questions for yourself that the vast majority of "climbers" can. Either that, or just stay away from where you're clearly not wanted. What number profile is this you're using now? Are you up to a dozen yet?

How many pitches have YOU jugged???Mutton....
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
NorCalNomad wrote:
Please tell us more how you are such a hardcore climber doing those 5.7 leads and v3 bolders. Do we have a possible Elanor resurgence?

Im not hardcore i just climb A LOT
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
maybe I just didnt have it dialed, but for PURE jugging (not cleaning, JUST jugging) froggy style sucks. real bad. real real real bad. Jugging 3 full rope lengths up to sickle ledge took me over twice as long as my partner (who used the classic 2 jumar style) and absolutely destroyed me physically. I used the redirected pull down method (with a revolver biner noless), it still sucks. Its great for short bursts (like when you are cleaning a route) but do that move over 50 times without stopping....goddamn its a workout. WAY more of one than it should be. Again, maybe I just didn't have it dialed in, all the slings and leg loops at the perfect distances...but fuck that, never again. Phill T
Joined May 5, 2008
148 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
I, have jugged my 10th pitch the decision is gri gri ascender method, for now at least. I was just wondering, if anybody has had a personal experience traversing with this method, please contribute. Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
Me
Phill T wrote:
maybe I just didnt have it dialed, but for PURE jugging (not cleaning, JUST jugging) froggy style sucks. real bad. real real real bad. Jugging 3 full rope lengths up to sickle ledge took me over twice as long as my partner (who used the classic 2 jumar style) and absolutely destroyed me physically. I used the redirected pull down method (with a revolver biner noless), it still sucks. Its great for short bursts (like when you are cleaning a route) but do that move over 50 times without stopping....goddamn its a workout. WAY more of one than it should be. Again, maybe I just didn't have it dialed in, all the slings and leg loops at the perfect distances...but fuck that, never again.

Maybe I just have a strong upper body and not bottom heavy but I had no problem, I enjoyed it actually, workout and all....a lot more to be said when I jug over 50 ft at a time . I almost always clean when I jug though.
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 21, 2013
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 21, 2013
Phill T wrote:
maybe I just didnt have it dialed, but for PURE jugging (not cleaning, JUST jugging) froggy style sucks. real bad. real real real bad. Jugging 3 full rope lengths up to sickle ledge took me over twice as long as my partner (who used the classic 2 jumar style) and absolutely destroyed me physically. I used the redirected pull down method (with a revolver biner noless), it still sucks. Its great for short bursts (like when you are cleaning a route) but do that move over 50 times without stopping....goddamn its a workout. WAY more of one than it should be. Again, maybe I just didn't have it dialed in, all the slings and leg loops at the perfect distances...but fuck that, never again.


You use two ascenders when doing frog style... One just chills on your chest.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 22, 2013
Me
NorCalNomad wrote:
You use two ascenders when doing frog style... One just chills on your chest.

Non climber again...not exactly chilling... This slyle is not nearly as efficient as the gri gri style.
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 22, 2013
Magic Ed
I LOVE my gri-gri but I don't like jumaring with one. I do a LOT of jugging and I much prefer two jumars. If it's very steep I'll fix the lower one directly to my belay loop and use a single etrier. Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Mar 22, 2013
Day at Summersville Lake
Dan Allard
From West Chester, PA
Joined Mar 28, 2011
590 points
Mar 22, 2013
Me
Ed Wright wrote:
I LOVE my gri-gri but I don't like jumaring with one. I do a LOT of jugging and I much prefer two jumars. If it's very steep I'll fix the lower one directly to my belay loop and use a single etrier.

The bottom ascender would not feed for me especially since I tied in and it took the weight off. Too mu ch thumb action for my likings too.
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points
Mar 22, 2013
It seems to me that someone is braking rule #1. GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Mar 22, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
The answer is, "it depends".

If I am following a vertical or less than vertical aid pitch then two ascenders is best.

If I am following an overhanging roof (i.e. Kor's Roof on Washington Column) then I find a GriGri and one ascender works better for me.

If I was in a party of three on a serious overhanging route where a lot of ascending is done in mid air (West Face of Leaning Tower) then I would have a caving frog system with one chest ascender (petzl croll) and one hand ascender (LH) dialed in.

Using the frog system with a dedicated chest ascender is rare and used predominately for caving.

Make sure to use back up knots with all methods when cleaning in case you pop off and go for a ride.

If you are jugging a fixed line and do not want to do back up knots you can use an old caving trick; attach a pruisk above your upper most ascender. The prusik moves up and is minded every time your ascender moves up. If you pop off then the prusik catches you.
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Mar 22, 2013
The Platform
Thank you randy88fj62, you covered it perfectly. Couldn't have said it better. Justin Lofthouse
From Utah
Joined Feb 1, 2007
137 points
Mar 22, 2013
Magic Ed
Marla J wrote:
The bottom ascender would not feed for me especially since I tied in and it took the weight off. Too mu ch thumb action for my likings too.


Yeah, I do all my jugging on fixed static ropes so it is a bit different.
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Mar 22, 2013
Me
Ed Wright wrote:
Yeah, I do all my jugging on fixed static ropes so it is a bit different.

You don't clean then. It's different then...i think. What are your recommendations on the elongation percent for an aide rope? Or should I just go with the cheapest beater? ....new 10.2 ...ideas??
Liberty
Joined Mar 16, 2013
25 points


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