|New Vice Area
Climb up to a large bulge and move right to surmount it. Work your way left after the bulge, then back again right, and finally left to the anchors (that's the way I climb it anyway). One of the best 5.9s at Red Wing.
This route is immediately around the corner from Goofed on Skunk Weed just right of the arete. This route is approximately 200 yards to the right from the top of the approach trail.
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.
1st clip area
Brad heading towards the second bolt.
juggy lower section
above the bulge
|By Andrew Krosbakken|
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sevve I agree about the decking potential but the crack/ flake to the right of the first bolt has some bomber jugs and I never felt sketched out going for the 2nd bolt. There are many other climbs at RW with a higher second bolt than this one and a sketchier landing. And for being a confident 5.10 leader to do this, I don't know. Yes and no. I don't want to offend you Sevve I just don't want to give people the wrong impression of this route.
A very fun climb with a crimpy finish that will test technique. Except for the second bolt being a tish bit high it is well bolted and a must do.
|By Andrew May|
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 25, 2009
I would have to agree with Andrew.
While there is deck potential, I agree with the way the route was bolted. The climbing between bolts 1 and 2 is relatively easy for the 5.9 grade. I never felt sketchy in that section of the climb. If you can climb 5.9 then you should be just fine on this route.
|By chris stampe|
Aug 5, 2012
Fun climb. Maybe 5.9+ with the 3rd or 4th bolt placed so far right...
Either way, the small bomber flake next to the 2nd bolt is LOOSE. It has a big X on it now. But if you really must use it, let your belayer know to stand out of the way on the off chance is comes loose.