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Petit Bastille
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Two-Tone Dihedral T 

Two-Tone Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harrison and Stuberg
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: pete cogan on May 31, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Left wall is red, right wall is gray, hence the na...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Petit Bastille, Rossiter: "This is the long, low ridge, just south of the old railroad cut/Fowler Trail, behind The Bastille." Stand in front of the Lori J Biehler bench and look East at the Petit Bastille. From the highest point, you'll see 2 obvious lines, one on the left side and one on the right. The line on the right is Two-Tone Dihedral.

Climb the right-facing dihedral, going left over the roof.

Good pro, some loose rock so keep your belayer off to one side, and overall a fun, continuous line. I'm surprised it hasn't been written up.

Descent: easy walk off to the east down the scree.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot using your bigger pieces for anchor. Brown tri-cam was good at the anchors, too.


Photos of Two-Tone Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top of the dihedral.
Near the top of the dihedral.

Comments on Two-Tone Dihedral Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

...I thought this was pretty bad. There is NOT good pro for the first third of the dihedral. A doubtful nut protects the first move off the ledge, but that move is not too hard. Then no gear at all for about 10'. Then some fair cams in a rotten horizontal on the left. A couple more moves to good gear. Coupled with that, most of the positive holds are on the red rock on the left wall and are of dubious quality. At the top I went right, avoiding more loose-looking rock, glad to get out of the red zone. I was self-belaying, so that may have contributed to the bad vibes. On TR, cleaning the pitch, I had a bit more fun.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did not think this was bad, but a new 5.8 leader might not like it very much. The difficult sections had good pro, but the pro on some of the easier sections was questionable. There is some loose rock on this, but if you test your holds, it is avoidable.