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 ADVANCED
Thieves Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptism by Fire T 
Brawn Wall, The T 
Emerald Dance T 
Grand Larceny T 
Rolling Rock T 
Sometimes a Great Notion T 
Thieves in the Temple S 
Tongue-in-Groove S 
Two-Tone Arete S 

Two-Tone Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Sullivan, 1992
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 8, 2008

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Description 

This route alone is worth coming to this area for! An easier version of Mutiny at Summersville. Climb the arete passing 3 bolts to reach a small overhang under a large ledge. Pull up over the bulge using the arete to gain a rest stance. If you are tall, you can traverse out right first to make the 4th clip, if not, you have to climb the arete and reach around right to make the clip. This may be committing if 5.10b is approaching your limit. Small cams can be placed at the ledge if this move concerns you. Continue up the white face to reach a second overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) to reach a some good holds to clip the shuts.

On hot summer days, this route stays in the shade and the large offwidth crack to the left serves as a natural air conditioner!

Location 

Continue upstream past the Gonad Wall. Arete is located just to the left of Emerald Dance. To the right of a large strange looking tree.

Protection 

6 bolts, shuts. If you are concerned about the large space between the 3rd and 4th bolt, gear could be easily placed here(green/yellow alien). Don't let this keep you from doing this classic route!


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