This route alone is worth coming to this area for! An easier version of Mutiny at Summersville. Climb the arete passing 3 bolts to reach a small overhang under a large ledge. Pull up over the bulge using the arete to gain a rest stance. If you are tall, you can traverse out right first to make the 4th clip, if not, you have to climb the arete and reach around right to make the clip. This may be committing if 5.10b is approaching your limit. Small cams can be placed at the ledge if this move concerns you. Continue up the white face to reach a second overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) to reach a some good holds to clip the shuts.
On hot summer days, this route stays in the shade and the large offwidth crack to the left serves as a natural air conditioner!
Continue upstream past the Gonad Wall. Arete is located just to the left of Emerald Dance. To the right of a large strange looking tree.
6 bolts, shuts. If you are concerned about the large space between the 3rd and 4th bolt, gear could be easily placed here(green/yellow alien). Don't let this keep you from doing this classic route!
|By P. Sully|
Nov 2, 2011
How are the shuts holding up on this one? Been almost 20 years now since they were put in.
I probably should have added another bolt between 3 & 4, but just bring some small TCUs w/ a long runner to protect the little move stepping up to bolt 4.
Remember to stay on the right side of the arete through the upper section, the climbing is nicer!
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
You can get to the 4th bolt if you just go straight up the face off the ledge. You need to use holds on the arete but this seemed to be the best way for me and it was all there.
Paul, anchor bolts looked just fine today (29JUL2012). Thanks for putting this one up...great line!