Start up a hand crack and muscle your way up this and into an awkwardly wide/thin squeeze to the top of the wall. The crux is the exhaustion dealing with the rounded edges of this and trying to feel secure in it. I thought that 5.7 was a sandbag grade, but it was early in my climbing career and perhaps my technique was poor. Top out and set and anchor back from the edge a ways on trees and belay up your partner- enjoying the grunts ans squeals from below if it makes you feel any better about your ascent. (it made me feel better about mine)
From the approach Trail, walk left a ways towards the standard walk-off and continue until just before a large roof looms over a corner. THe wall is ~100' tall here. Two Step climbs the hand-to-fist crack that gets wide up top, in a right-facing corner.
A standard rack plus a few big pieces. I didn't have anything big or any doubles and I had to run it out. Perhaps someone can comment to advise on an ideal rack.
May 14, 2013
Rating: Agree with route contributor - 5.7 seems like a sandbag rating. The "rounded edges" as the route contributor said, doesn't feel secure becuase it is sandy, and the "sugar cookie" crystals can get in your eye as you try to climb it.
Stars: Not sure why this got 3 stars in *the* guidebook- agree w/ MP... it is one star, unless you just bought some big cams and need to test it out.
Bring medium and 1-2 big cams - #6 BD C4 or #6 WC Friend, or maybe a #5 can be used for the 2nd #6. We only had 1 #6 and moved it around. Or, equivalent big bro (#3), depending on your placment skills.
|By Dustin Stephens|
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thought this route was pretty good actually with a very cool topout. Consider bringing a sling or two to beef up the rock-thread rap anchor.