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 ADVANCED
The Optimator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

Two Scoops 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Fowler, 1995
Page Views: 1,195
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Through the boulder problem and into the layback

Description 

New school style IC route with a bolt protecting crux entry moves. A difficult progression from powerful face/tips through second digit locks sets you up for a tight finger lieback/jam corner and a short pinch to the anchor.

Very cool I thought!

Protection 

Bolt, (1-2).4, (2).5, (2).75, (3) 1 (Friends fit great), (1).75, (1).5 (inches referenced for cam sizes)

Location 

This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.


Comments on Two Scoops Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Oct 10, 2007

Where at the optimator is this route?
By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
Nov 23, 2007

This is on the same ledge system as the optimator. It has a plaque, but it is almost illegible.
By Scott Bennett
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is the next route to the left of Optimator. Look for a bolt about 8' off the ground.
By mountainsense
Apr 21, 2010

  • Historical Note: At the time of the first ascent, 00 TCUs did not exist to protect the initial moves, or the belayer.