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 ADVANCED
Bolt Slab
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Chimney Route T,TR 
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Two-Nut Muffin T 

Two-Nut Muffin 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 628
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 25, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab, West Face
5 Sky Hook 5.8
...

Description 

A thoroughly enjoyable jaunt up the Bolt Slab using a thin crack for gear.

Scramble up some blocky, lower-angled rock to the base of the slab proper (you can belay either from here or from lower down, below the blocky stuff).

Climb a pedestal on the left and start upwards, following the thin crack that starts just to the right of the pedestal. Put a nut in the small crack whenever you can as it gets a little strenuous with poor feet in sections and you won’t want to stop.

Eventually reach some larger handholds and then the left side of the slab. From here the climbing is much easier to the bolted anchor, with readily available protection.


Location 

The left side of the west-facing slab. Climb a pedestal at the base of the slab on the left, and then head up the thin crack just to the right of the pedestal.


Protection 

A set of nuts with extras in the smaller sizes, and a medium cam or two. Bolted anchors.



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