|By Mark Pell|
Jan 31, 2013
'TIA' was the first new route done by Clarence Hickman ("Scrappy Cloggins") and me at Cedar climbing as a team. I also believe it was the first route to reach the top of the Central Buttress by what traditional Looking Glass climbers would call 'fair means.' It went in ground-up on the lead without falls, with the climbing interrupted several times by rainy weather before we redpointed all the way to the summit in one push, trading leads as usual. We only used two bolts on the entire climb, both for protection on pitch 2. I hand-drilled the upper bolt on the lead from a desperate stance before making the crux 5.10 traverse moves, and Scrap added the lower bolt on the follow to cancel the runout. I added the first belay bolt at the ledge at the base of pitch 2 on a subsequent ascent. Thanks to local Nathan Brown for recently replacing pitch 2's protection bolts with modern deep 1/2" units while working on his new route "Common Ground."