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Half Dome
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Autobahn 
Blondike 
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Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome 
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Two Hoofers 

Two Hoofers 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Hemken and Andy Davis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,592
Submitted By: androo.daveass on Aug 25, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for two new (2008) routes on Half Dome's SW F...
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  • Description 

    Climbs the large water groove on the SW face of Half Dome. Pitch one is shared with Blondike.
    The crux is the face just below the start of the groove, this blank 20ft section can be pulled through at AO, making the route 5.10b AO.


    Protection 

    Cams- two each .4-#3 Camalot, one #4
    Nuts- one set
    Runners and Draws



    Photos of Two Hoofers Slideshow Add Photo
    Two Hoofers from the ground.  The route ascends underneath the giant flake, but passes it far to the right.
    BETA PHOTO: Two Hoofers from the ground. The route ascends un...
    bolt ladder or 5.12 friction on pitch three
    bolt ladder or 5.12 friction on pitch three
    doug getting into the groove
    doug getting into the groove
    A more detailed view of pitches 2-4
    BETA PHOTO: A more detailed view of pitches 2-4
    David Nimmer at the belay for pitch one.
    BETA PHOTO: David Nimmer at the belay for pitch one.
    Comments on Two Hoofers Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Travis Hibbard
    Aug 27, 2008

    Congratulations Guys!

    Looks like you had an awesome time. The "groove" looks badass

    By Doug Hemken
    Administrator
    Aug 28, 2008

    Thanks, Travis.

    The main part of the groove was surprisingly tame. I kind of swam up the main trough, and it is low-angle enough to keep a foot on the outside face. Even at the top, where is rears up more steeply, it's really nice hands.

    The part that was "badass" was the bolt ladder/ 5.12 friction below the groove.

    In and around all of that is a bunch of really neat 5.10 face/slab climbing, including mantels, pinches, and cool solution pockets in the bottom of the groove.

    Unfortunately, the belay stances are not in the best places for taking photos, so this route doesn't have the stunning eye-appeal of "Blondike."

    It would be a good 5.12 for a 5.10 climber to take a shot at.

    By Tom Mulholland
    From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
    Jul 11, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

    David Nimmer and I worked on this route on July 6th, finding a free variation along the bolt ladder. We were unable to free the pitch that day when the sun made everything too hot. On July 7th, we freed the whole line.

    After a lot of discussion about the grade, we think it is fair to call it a 5.12a because of the face climbing in the bolt ladder section, which consists of insecure friction feet and credit card crimps for about 10 moves, then a few more moves of 5.10 face. Neither of us has much experience with 5.12 friction face climbing in the Valley, but we feel the moves are similar to a 5.12b/c at Devil's Lake. We are of course open to any future suggestions about the grade.

    I gave it an R rating because of some very run-out sections and hard-to-place gear, although the hardest moves on the climb are well-protected.

    Beta photos to come soon...

    By Doug Hemken
    Administrator
    Jul 11, 2011

    Yes! Thanks for cleaning that up, guys! So maybe now we should start calling this "Four Hoofers" ....

    By SteveZ
    From: Arvada, CO
    Mar 6, 2013

    Looks like a cool route, I'm just curious what kind of terrain the big run outs are on. From the topo it looks like friction 5.6. Anything more difficult? Thinking about doing this next trip out, but need to return in one piece ;-)

    By Doug Hemken
    Administrator
    Mar 7, 2013

    The runout is easy friction. Feel free to take along a hammer and drill and add a couple of bolts to pitch 5, or even break it up into two pitches. We ran it out because we ran out of time ....

    By SteveZ
    From: Arvada, CO
    Mar 7, 2013

    Thanks Doug! Funny about the extra bolts...I don't even own a hammer so I'll probably just do what you guys did and keep climbing. But maybe I can track one down somewhere. Depends on what the partners are feeling like while we're out there but I'll be sure to let you know how it goes if I get to try this thing. Sweet looking route.

    ps. Is the name because you two are part of the hoofers club?

    By bob jensen
    Mar 17, 2013
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13

    Fun route up that face. The sun sucked on the crux, but the climbing is yummy. I made it through the toughest part, but couldn't see a big edge to grab and ....... no send. It was pretty funny actually. I was stressing and sweating and looking for anything, but the biggest thing right in front of me. HA!
    Runouts didn't seem bad.
    Thanks for your work up on this face. I really like it up there. Needless to say, no crowds on this or the bdike next door. Yeah

    EDIT I obviously didn't free climb it, but I gave that rating because I came damn close. I was well within range of a better hold. 11+ is like that for me often. 12 seems impossible for me usually at first.