Two Hoofers 

Congratulations Guys!

Looks like you had an awesome time. The "groove" looks badass

Thanks, Travis.

The main part of the groove was surprisingly tame. I kind of swam up the main trough, and it is low-angle enough to keep a foot on the outside face. Even at the top, where is rears up more steeply, it's really nice hands.

The part that was "badass" was the bolt ladder/ 5.12 friction below the groove.

In and around all of that is a bunch of really neat 5.10 face/slab climbing, including mantels, pinches, and cool solution pockets in the bottom of the groove.

Unfortunately, the belay stances are not in the best places for taking photos, so this route doesn't have the stunning eye-appeal of "Blondike."

It would be a good 5.12 for a 5.10 climber to take a shot at.

David Nimmer and I worked on this route on July 6th, finding a free variation along the bolt ladder. We were unable to free the pitch that day when the sun made everything too hot. On July 7th, we freed the whole line.

After a lot of discussion about the grade, we think it is fair to call it a 5.12a because of the face climbing in the bolt ladder section, which consists of insecure friction feet and credit card crimps for about 10 moves, then a few more moves of 5.10 face. Neither of us has much experience with 5.12 friction face climbing in the Valley, but we feel the moves are similar to a 5.12b/c at Devil's Lake. We are of course open to any future suggestions about the grade.

I gave it an R rating because of some very run-out sections and hard-to-place gear, although the hardest moves on the climb are well-protected.

Beta photos to come soon...

Yes! Thanks for cleaning that up, guys! So maybe now we should start calling this "Four Hoofers" ....

Looks like a cool route, I'm just curious what kind of terrain the big run outs are on. From the topo it looks like friction 5.6. Anything more difficult? Thinking about doing this next trip out, but need to return in one piece ;-)

The runout is easy friction. Feel free to take along a hammer and drill and add a couple of bolts to pitch 5, or even break it up into two pitches. We ran it out because we ran out of time ....

Thanks Doug! Funny about the extra bolts...I don't even own a hammer so I'll probably just do what you guys did and keep climbing. But maybe I can track one down somewhere. Depends on what the partners are feeling like while we're out there but I'll be sure to let you know how it goes if I get to try this thing. Sweet looking route.

ps. Is the name because you two are part of the hoofers club?

Fun route up that face. The sun sucked on the crux, but the climbing is yummy. I made it through the toughest part, but couldn't see a big edge to grab and ....... no send. It was pretty funny actually. I was stressing and sweating and looking for anything, but the biggest thing right in front of me. HA!
Runouts didn't seem bad.
Thanks for your work up on this face. I really like it up there. Needless to say, no crowds on this or the bdike next door. Yeah

EDIT I obviously didn't free climb it, but I gave that rating because I came damn close. I was well within range of a better hold. 11+ is like that for me often. 12 seems impossible for me usually at first.