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The Dark Side
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Two Hearts 
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Two Hearts 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn and Ed Schmitt
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 20, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This may be a "chipped route" according to Knapp. I didn't notice it when I climbed it like I did "Fiddler on the Woof" in Clear Creek, but I've never been back to inspect the hold since Knapp claimed it chipped. Nonetheless, this is one of the best routes at Shelf of any rating. The ultimate grab bag of moves; bulges, pockets, roofs, underclings and thin cracks yields an incredibly sustained outing! See photo or book for starting information, but this one's not over till it's over ! Absolute must do !


Protection 

10-12 clips plus anchors.



Photos of Two Hearts Slideshow Add Photo
Randy near the top of Two Hearts.
Randy near the top of Two Hearts.
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By Joe Collins
Jun 1, 2004

Hard to imagine you didn't notice the chipped hold at the start on this one. The perfect 4-finger mailslot is most certainly manufactured. There is another questionable two finger right after this, but I didn't need to use it... shorter people might have to. From the 2nd bolt onward, the climbing is sustained, tricky, and long... 3-stars. If you find long-5.11s with one move of V6 more troubling than route modification, you'll love this route.

By abc
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

FA -- Mark Van Horn and Ed Schmidt.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 11, 2009

Really, really fun route.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 27, 2010

Ben's Dad? If so, I think it's spelled Schmitt.