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Two Heads Are Better Than One 
Valentine Crack 

Two Heads Are Better Than One 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Michael Durvidge & Pat Contor, 1989
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: Boissal on Nov 9, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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GRK and the more manly way to approach 2Heads: str...

Description 

Two Heads climbs the gritty slab a few feet left of Dragon Arch. Easy but hard-to-protect moves up a couple of overlaps lead to a left-trending seam protected by micros (nuts & cams) then up to a large roof that can be surmounted a few different (and possibly wild) ways.
The moves to the roof a ways above small pieces require a solid lead head - or possibly a second one.
The upper section is bolt-protected and features fun chickenhead pulling and slab moves.

A bit stout and heady for 5.9- but definitely worthy of a few stars...


Location 

This route starts a few feet left of Dragon Arch and climbs up and around the large left-trending roof.


Protection 

3 bolts, the first one well hidden on top of a huge chickenhead sitting at the lip of the roof (some webbing makes it more visible).
Micronuts and small cams for the start, nothing bigger than a #1 BD C3.
Long slings to tie-off knobs.

2 bolt anchor with fresh-looking webbing and quicklinks (shared with Dragon Arch). Rap off to save your rope for being gnawed on by gritty choss.



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By Fett
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I thought that the first bolt looked a little manky plus the sling on it. Clipping a biner to the bolt makes it cam bad against the the chicken head that it is drilled into. It is best to girth hitch the hanger with a sling or replace the old tat on it (I wouldn't trust my life on that tat). Thought it was kind of weird to see all the bolts but the first were replaced. Seems like it would be better to drill the bolt a little lower just above the roof instead of on top of the chicken head. All of these routes could use chains at the anchors instead of slings and rap rings. The rock is quality all the way up and the chicken head moves are cool! Really liked this area, good times.

By Pete Spri
Jun 6, 2010

I liked this route, but a little run-out/heady, so make sure you're up for 5.9.

As Ras said above, the first bolt is manky as all get out (think it's a button head with smc hanger), drilled on top of a chickenhead that cross-loads your biner. In addition to clipping this, there is another chickenhead off to the left that ties off with reasonable inspiration of confidence that it'll hold a fall. If both of these fail, though, you could ledge out.

By mikewhite
Jun 6, 2010

I will check out that bolt soon.

By tenesmus
Jun 15, 2010

I really like this one as a fun warmup. We kind of thought the sling is there to say, "hey, I know you're down below and wouldn't see this bolt without the sling." The button head looked fine to me and the line of the route pulls the biner off to the right once you clip the next bolt. Love those easy mantles.