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 ADVANCED
Middle Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beach Crack T,TR 
In the Buckets TR 
Jungle Book T,TR 
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 
Two In One S 

Two for One (right variation) 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002  with updates from Logan Swartz

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The middle section of the middle tier. Climb left ...

Description 

The direct route to the coldshuts on the right side of the middle tier. These are located about 15' to the left of the crack (5.7).

This route is pretty straight forward, climb up into the bowl, and then work your way up and right up the cracklike feature on the rock. The crux is the top of the crack, though you can add another mini-crux by traversing over to the top anchor at the top instead of topping out.


Protection 

Coldshuts on top, use a sling (5'+) to avoid rope drag on the rock.



Comments on Two for One (right variation) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

OK route, short and reasonably solid. sandy though...The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors.

Too sandy to be a good route- not bad, true, but definately not good.

The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Another possible variation is either getting into the initial cave from the left side or the right side. The left side appears to be more difficult, and some is balancey fun. The move is complicated by the fact you have to do tricky foot/body positioning while getting your fingers to stick the small seam of a sandy sloper. I ended up crucified on two small holds while doing some dance steps. I did the top as Tony Bubb did, but, unlike him, I think these two variations make the climb a solid 5.10D, as previously rated.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 4, 2013

This route is now called "Two for One". .10a to the left, .11a to the right.

The old anchor which has been bad for the past decade finally blew out and has been replaced by two new glue-ins. Chain and quicklinks should be added to these anchors to minimize rope scarring and discourage TRing through the glue-in anchors.