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Two Faces Face

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Dr. Jekyll T 
Mr. Hyde T 

Two Faces Face 


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Jul 9, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: L to R: Djupfjord Butress, Two Faces Face, Sjosva...

Description 

This is actually a small wall with two excellent routes. It is located within the Djupfjord Area, but it doesn't make sense to just add the routes to that area so until the Lofoten section gets more attention, this will have to do.

The Two Faces Face is a clean granite slab that is about 200 feet tall and nearly featureless. I can't imagine a better set of names for the two routes on this face: Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. The climbing is monty friction slab with some edges and microcrimps on Mr. Hyde. Let's just say that this wall would be at home in North Carolina. The Wall is northwest facing and may get some sun in the afternoon. It is quite exposed, but easy to bail from and 20 minutes or less from the car.


Getting There 

The Two Faces Face is on the south shore of Djupfjord. It sits only 100 feet or so above the water, just to the climber's right (west) of the larger Djupfjord Buttress.

Park at the turnout on the north side of the causeway, walk across the causeway on the road and then hop down onto the boulders by the water. Walk for a few minutes and about 100-200 feet before you run out of beach, turn right up into the vegetation. An easy scramble from a vegetated gully leads up to the base of the routes.


Climbing Season


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Two Faces Face
The cracks of the first pitch can be seen here, followed by the belay in the depression on the right and then the second pitch crux on the slab above.

Mr. Hyde 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13  Europe : Norway : ... : Two Faces Face
I won't give this route an R rating since I've never seen it described that way. It would not receive an R rating in North Carolina, but it probably would in newer climbing areas. It is protectable, but it is also serious. The newest guide describes it as "altogether a more memorable and scary experience [compared to Dr. Jekyll]."The route starts below a few faint flakes that lead to a chunk of quartz. Climb to this and then head right over some obvious water streaks, using a this crack for p...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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