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Weller Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apple Pie T,TR 
Militant T 
Nickels and Dimes S 
Ski Pole T 
Two Ears T 
Ultra Edge T 
Zanzibar Dihedral T 

Two Ears 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: na
Page Views: 1,531
Submitted By: Spinalflow on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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"Two Ears" starts next to the pine tree in this ph...

Description 

Climb up and right past a small roof. End on slanting ledge.


Location 

Do a 2 rope rappel or keep going up Zanzibar Dihedral for the second pitch & walk off.


Protection 

Plenty o' pro standard rack will do.
Bolted anchors @ the top.



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Sorting gear at the top of Two Ears.
Sorting gear at the top of Two Ears.
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By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Anyone know what happens if you head directly up from Two Ears? That would be the face to the left and around the arete from Zanzibar Dihedral. The arete itself looks climbable as well.

By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2009

Yeah, it supposedly goes up an unnamed 5.8. Ski Pole 5.7 goes somewhere up the left of there on the face.

By monolith
Jul 13, 2009

Starts directly behind the single tree closest to the slab. Fairly inobvious to me because the rock looks kinda broken w grass growing out of it. I went up to the two pins then followed the seam right then then up through the cleft in the small roof. Went to the huge ledge and belayed there for Zanzibar. Didn't see the chains which are to the left of the ledge if you are facing the rock. Easy climbing but also run out at times.

Also if you are doing the walk off for Zanzibar check out the ramp sloping up from the start of two ears. There are a couple of bolted sport climbs to the left on an upward sloping ramp. I think the object of the walk off is to end up on this ramp. If you go too far you end up in a loose scree gully that deposits you below the ramp.

By Lynn S
Jul 16, 2010

The "bolted anchor" mentioned above has been replaced (it had ratty slings and wire cable). The new anchor/rap station is just to the left as you reach the big ledge below Zanzibar. You can easily stand on the ledge and reach over and clip into the rap station, the old one was 15 left and a bit inconvenient/exposed to get to.

If climbing Zanzibar, I would build a gear anchor in the corner, just my opinion. Now you can rap from the top of Zanzibar and get to the anchor while still on rappel. A second double rope rap gets you to the ground. The hardware is courtesy of ASCA.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I followed the same route described by Monolith -- starting at the base of the tree nearest the slab, climbing up through the broken rock with grass growing out of it, then following the seam right for about 10 feet then up through a cleft in the small roof and continuing up to the bolts just left of the Zanzibar Dihedral. The new anchors with chains are well placed to be able to reach around and grab while standing on the Zanzibar Dihedral ledge. I thought the climb was on the easier side of 5.7, with plenty of opportunities for protection given the relative ease of the climb. It's a great way to get to the start of Zanzibar.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2013

Who knows where this route is? I guess I did it. It's a cluster of firs you're looking for at the start. Probably best to take the path of least resistance to the ledge, except I was too far left and shot past the anchor and ledge. Try not to do that.

Pro is decent, perhaps of not the size or quality you prefer, but it's there. This route eats gear, after all, it's long. I used everything between C3s and #2. I would not bother taking a #4 for either this or Zanzibar. Double up on middle size cams.