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Two days on, focuses?
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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Oct 16, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
My work/school life is kicking my ass but amazingly my climbing is still improving. I'm sure the fact that I'm psyched pretty much every time I get out plays a role in that but it's still nice.

My question is, sometimes after a bunch of assignments are due I get a decent break, either on a weekend or two weeknights in a row. To get the most out of two days on climbing, what should I focus on for day 1 and what should I focus on for day 2?

I've been doing a lot of bouldering because it's a quick workout but I would love to rope up more often too. What is the most effective use of two climbing days in a row?

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2011
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Are you wanting to maximize training benefit or maximize results on the rock during these two days?

For intense climbing (sport) I find it useful to start early and quit early on day 1, then start late on day 2. It also helps to take two rest days afterwards.

If you're concerned about injury do whatever activity is more intense on Day 1, then something more mellow day 2. For example, work a sport project on day 1, then do a multi pitch trad route well within your onsight ability day 2.

I would avoid bouldering altogether for double days, unless you're doing slab bouldering well belolw your limit or something like that. But you could do something like boulder hard day one then cruise a Flatiron on Day 2.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Oct 16, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
Training benefit. I'm not too concerned with performance right now. I'm too busy and too stressed most of the time. I just like to get out when I can and I've had some fantastic performances (for me) just letting it happen.

I've generally been worthless if I try to climb the day after bouldering hard so I guess that makes sense. It does give me a good excuse to climb flatirons which I love but generally doesn't improve my climbing. The idea for sport climbing 2 days on is a good one, I'll have to be proactive and line up partners for that but it would be worthwhile.

I don't think injury is a big concern except my skin. I generally have multiday forced rests (2 to 5 days) between climbing sessions just because I have too much homework to do. It has been tough to get my skin in shape enough for my v5-v6 projects but I'm happy to have progressed to sending many v4's in a session or two. I've done all the moves on a handful of harder projects but just can't link yet.

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 19, 2011
As Mono said, I would do the powerful workout on the first day and the mileage workout on the second day. Which power and mileage workouts you choose depends on your goals.

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