Gear, bolt anchor
This is the prominent face and arete above the detached block at the base of the cliff after walking from the cave. Climb up the chimney passing an old bolt stud. Step off the top of the block onto the face, find some gear, following the seam on the right of the arete and eventually pull around the left about halfway up.
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Dec 30, 2011
The R part is at the bottom and can actually be avoided by scrambling up to the ledge above the chimney from farther to the right of the climb. That being said, the hairy part is over quick and this climb should not be missed, it is super dooper dank.
|By Phil S|
From: Bethlehem, NH
Apr 28, 2013
This route is a gem with some of the most fantastic exposure you'll experience at the New with extremely fun climbing and great rock, too!
I did this on the morning of a warm spring day and by the time I lowered off the top, the rock was sunny and hot and there were many wasps occupying the upper face to the right of the arete. I didn't see any nests but just a heads up.
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 29, 2013
Not too hard to clip the hanger-less bolt using a small wire if you go up the face for the first 10 feet. That didn't feel any harder than 5.9, and then once you clip it, you can move left and grab the huge flake for the easy layback to the ledge. I'd call it PG13 that way. Anyone else try that?
|By David Kikuchi|
Aug 26, 2013
Sacrificed a #1 C4 to bail fifteen feet short of the anchors when a swarm of hornets came at me. Booty for anyone wearing a beekeeper's outfit, plate armor or mail, or completely immune to those fuckers.
|By Vicki Schwantes|
From: Washington, DC
Oct 23, 2013
As of Sept 22, the hornet nest was still there. I quietly climbed past them and they didn't notice me. My partner didn't even notice the nest.
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
As of 5/3/2014, there is a shiny new glue-in bolt on the face just above the R-rated start.
No hornets, but there was a copperhead coiled up in a key horizontal for added spice.