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Scarface
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Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) 
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Your Mama 

Twitch 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,608
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Andy pulling out of Twitch

Description 

Great route. This route is many hundred yards right of scarface and about 200 feet right of Wavy Gravy. Starts with a perfect hands roof crack which widens just above the lip to wide hands. Pulling the lip is the crux. After that its a 5.10 thin hands corner to the top.

[The roof is about twenty feet long and 4 feet deep. You can't miss the fist sized crack that is the start of Twitch.]


Protection 

3-4 sets of camalots from finger size to #3



Photos of Twitch Slideshow Add Photo
Jake working it out
Jake working it out
Crux!
Crux!
After the roof
After the roof
Pulling out the roof on Twitch
Pulling out the roof on Twitch
he got it.
he got it.
Twitch did some bad things to me.  As you can see from the plaque, there is some disagreement as to the true grade.
Twitch did some bad things to me. As you can see ...
This was hard..
This was hard..
Comments on Twitch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Johnson
Feb 10, 2003

This is one of my favorite routes at indian creek. Unlike a lot of the other roof routes at the creek, the roof comes right at the beginning and it is perfect hands. After the roof comes a great(fun not huge) dihedral to the anchors. Definately get on this climb if you get the chance. However, you must walk pretty damn far to get to it so be prepared and keep walking, you'll know it when you see it.

By Lon Black
Apr 2, 2008

I agree Andy. What a line. I have never even checked it out as I walked by to go to routes farther right like Big Guy or Wavy Gravy. Friggin awesome line.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Fantastic route well worth the walk down the right side of the crag. In a place with lots and lots of corners, this one stands out. Great roof pull.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

a pretty good tug to get over the roof and get stood up. climbs more like a granite crack.

By Courtney Pace
Mar 16, 2012

Very stout roof. Easy to get into the thick of it but hard to get your feet up as the jams start to flare. The plaque said 11++ and I would agree.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Great pitch! Getting over the roof is a puzzle, once you figure it out it's not so bad but still stouter than many pitches of the same grade. Having a #3 ready to go at the lip was nice for my head. Also why not double up on the pro under the roof(play to win)?

Hard to believe some folks only give this 2 stars, one of the better pitches at the Creek.