Twistoflex  5.8+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  ???, 1977. Season:  Faces S/SE. Submitted By:  Tony B on May 2, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The original route on the Fin 1, but has been superseded in popularity by Ghetto Cruiser, which shares 75% of its length, and is slightly easier to climb and protect.

The route starts as for Ghetto Cruiser, but follows the crack to the right of the corner, instead of the corner itself. When the crack becomes wide (crux), Ghetto Cruiser goes left into the corner directly to avoid the difficulty and remains 5.7, but Twistoflex stays on the right crack, tackling a 4-7" crack for some distance before being forced back left at a roof (3-4" pro in a horizontal) to rejoin that route.

One can continue entirely to the top on a 70m rope, and a 60m would probably make it as well.

The belay on the shelf before the end is poor, and the top has a nice stance and 2 fat bolts.

Location 

The route starts on the right hand edge of Fin 1, as for Ghetto Cruiser. The route starts in a short and shallow, left-facing corner that rises to become the right-facing open book, S/SE corner.

Protection 

A standard rack with at least one 4" or larger piece unless you are fond of runouts. In the OW section, early on, there is a fingercrack back in the left side that will take 0.5-1" cams here and there (best is 0.75") but those run out before the crux and are blind placements that are impossible to inspect. If 5.8 is your limit, you will certainly want at least one old style #4 Camalot of new-style #5. More could be placed of course.
Long slings are also helpful.