Twistin' in the Wind  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Rob Robinson, 1991 Season:  Spring/Fall Submitted By:  Mike Anderson on Jan 14, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Twisting...

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Description 

This T-Wall classic is touted by some as "one of the best sport routes in the South" (which may depend on whether you consider Kentucky to be a southern state). Nevertheless, it is certainly one of the best at T-Wall, and a must-do if you have what it takes. The climb is marred by a short band of flaky rock, and a couple no-hands rests, but its extreme angle make it stand out among the many roof-capped slabs.

Begin with a tough boulder problem of precise dynos to surmount the first roof. Recover on the pocketed slab while psyching up for the steep roof finish. Thankfully, the final roof is adorned with large jugs, but you'll have to keep the pump in check and might need to make a couple big throws.

The anchors are in an awkward spot, so you might want to down-climb and lower off the last bolt. This route often has draws on it.

Location 

In the Ampitheater, this is the third route and second sport route right of the waterfall. Begin in a left-facing dihedral with a big pocket.

Protection 

Bolts, often with fixed draws. Stick clipping isn't a bad idea as the hardest moves are close to the ground.

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