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Twisted Tree AKA Kenyon's Shoulder T 

Twisted Tree AKA Kenyon's Shoulder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a Hueco: V4 Font: 6B A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Boulder, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a Hueco: V4 Font: 6B A0 [details]
FA: FA Chris Pelczarski & Craig Kenyon using a should stand. FFA Jack Torness, Robbie Freidel, Chris Pelczarski & MaryBeth Wells
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Tater Tot on May 1, 2013

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Description 

This route was first done by Chris Pelczarski and Craig Kenyon using a shoulder stand to bypass the overhanging offwidth start. Jack Torness led the FFA. The start without a shoulder stand goes at about a V4 boulder problem.

Location 

Look for the obvious direct crack right behind the Twisted Tree at the base of the spire. The overhanging offwidth section at the bottom is a dead give away.

Protection 

Bring lots of C3s and small nuts. If you want to do the route in the style of the FFA, solo the beginning without any gear or a harness. Then, after passing the crux, wedge yourself into the chimney above and have your friends throw you a harness, rope, and gear. This way, you will avoid having to use any wide gear at the bottom.

Beta Bonus Clue: A number five is a tasty treat at the slab topout.

Descent is a Needles Style Rappel however you see fit.


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By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
May 2, 2013

Just out of curiosity. If the start is a V4 boulder problem wouldn't that make this climb a 5.11 if you used the hardest move(s) to judge a climb? Like I said just curious and with all respect. None the less congrats to you Gents on what looks like a great climb. Jack free-soloed the beginning? BA Great to see new development going down in this area. Robbie always talked about how awesome it looked. I will definitely have to get up there soon. Cheers bud!
By Tater Tot
From: Custer, SD
Jul 4, 2013

Well, I rated it this way because there was no way to put a free rating and aid rating on mountain project. The beginning is very hard and does climb like a boulder problem. The way I graded it basically lets everyone know that the beginning is significantly harder than the rest of the route and can be bypassed with a little shoulder of a friend. If anyone can't climb hard enough, don't be afraid to get some help and enjoy the upper bit of this beautiful climb! The hard bottom is very short but very hard. Try the route and let me know what you think!
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Jul 4, 2013

Agreed and underSTANDable. Hoping to make my way out there soon. Looks like a good route for sure!