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One word to describe this route is "varied", both in terms of style of climbing and quality of climbing. Some parts feel like an alpine ridge traverse and some parts feel like a sport climb. The route overall would be much better if it were not for some junk rock. Like many of the routes at Mountain Light Wall the tightly bolted cruxes often seem less desperate than the easier sections which are protected by gear placed in exfoliating cracks. Sections of the route get shade all day making this a good one for those days when it's hot and blindingly sunny.
Pitch 1 (5.10b, 100 feet) Scramble up around the right side of Mountain Light Wall. Begin in a left leaning crack in a dihedral which passes a 2ft tall pine about 30 feet up. Gear is sparse in the beginning so be careful. After turning the corner and the baby pine follow the crack up and left and then straight up to a piton followed by a tightly bolted face. Belay at bolts.
Pitch 2: (5.8, 90 feet) From the anchor move right and follow a thin crack with tricky gear. The crack will end at a small foot-ledge with 5.7R slab climbing above it, but before you get to the ledge traverse right to another crack via some inobvious features and pockets. Take this crack to a slabby ramp, traverse left and then climb another flared crack to a knifeblade ridge with a steep droppoff the other side. Make a fun traverse left along the exposed ridge, clipping a bolt along the way. Belay at a bolted anchor just below the ridge.
Pitch 3 (5.10d, 80 feet) This is the best pitch and the crux. Climb up some blocks to a steep north-facing wall. Make some improbable moves past a bunch of bolts until you get out on the arete. Climb the lower-angle arete past a couple pitons and then get back out on the face for some final steep moves and bolts.
Pitch 4 (5.9, 100 feet) Climb up some low angle cracks leading to a short headwall. Make a couple awkward moves up a corner to a ledge with an offwidth. Avoid the OW by moving into the hand crack to the right. Then traverse even more right around to the other side of the "pillar" before mantling up onto it and belaying at the bolted anchors on the face to the left.
Rappel the route with one 60 meter rope.
A set of nuts and single set of cams to "3. The crux pitch can be climbed entirely with quickdraws.
|Comments on Twisted Transistor
|By Bryan G|
Jul 16, 2010
If the leader carries the camera on the 3rd pitch he/she can get some excellent shots of the follower. I linked the 3rd with the 4th and missed this opportunity. (The route can be climbed in 2 pitches linking 1w/2 and 3w/4, and the pitches where you're getting rope drag have the benefit of being the easy ones)