Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Andrew Bisharat |
Page Views: | 1,991 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | D F on Nov 10, 2010 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Upside-down climbing through a 20-foot roof 100 feet off the deck makes this new route (August 2010) one of the most exciting 13a's in a canyon filled with awesome 13a's.
Climb "Brothers Carrutherzov" to the ledge before the traverse. Make the first exciting step right on that route, then blast straight up through the tiered overhangs, heading for the prominent groove through the middle of the big roof. The crux is starting that roof.
If you clip the anchors, the rope runs at a pretty harsh angle over the lip; it seemed better to down-jump, which is a whole lot of fun anyway. The anchors are where they should be, however it would be a travesty to not turn the lip. Perhaps we should hang a bell at the finish mandating a bell-ring and a down-jump for a proper send? No clip-able anchors, just a bell and a loop of slack dangling through space under your feet to the last bolt, which is out of sight. Ha. Or not.
Climb "Brothers Carrutherzov" to the ledge before the traverse. Make the first exciting step right on that route, then blast straight up through the tiered overhangs, heading for the prominent groove through the middle of the big roof. The crux is starting that roof.
If you clip the anchors, the rope runs at a pretty harsh angle over the lip; it seemed better to down-jump, which is a whole lot of fun anyway. The anchors are where they should be, however it would be a travesty to not turn the lip. Perhaps we should hang a bell at the finish mandating a bell-ring and a down-jump for a proper send? No clip-able anchors, just a bell and a loop of slack dangling through space under your feet to the last bolt, which is out of sight. Ha. Or not.
Protection
A 70-meter rope is a good idea, though I had rope to spare, so maybe you could get off with 62 meters or something.
Quickdraws: I think Andrew left the route equipped, but if not, you would probably need about 16-18 draws, with 5-6 of them being long runners.
Most people will likely use two kneepads, though the right one is the only one that seems kind of necessary.
Quickdraws: I think Andrew left the route equipped, but if not, you would probably need about 16-18 draws, with 5-6 of them being long runners.
Most people will likely use two kneepads, though the right one is the only one that seems kind of necessary.
1 Comment