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Middle Class Wall
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Twinkletoes S 

Twinkletoes 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Beavers
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

5 bolts of easy climbing lead up and left to the middle ledge (use long draws). A hard first move off the ledge is followed by hard sustained climbing and the crux sequence through the last 2 bolts. Originally graded 12c (which I'll admit was a sandbag) then bumped up to 13a. Seems to be settling in at 12d, but you be the judge.

Location 

The 1st route right of Middle Class Cracker follows the leftmost of the 3 black streaks on the obvious overhanging headwall (see photo on the Middle Class page).

Protection 

11 bolts to chains.


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By Rob Bailey
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Five clips of pure bliss. Sustained, powerfull, two moderate rests, big moves, all business, cruxy middle section, and a dyno for dessert. Who could ask for anything more. Thank you, Beavs. It seems to be hard 12d to me. Not quite 13a, but definitely not 12c.
By Damon Vaughan
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This route is an absolute gem! I don't think there is a better line in the Poudre, except possibly Dream. This took a TON of work from me and maximum effort to send. For that reason, I think it's solidly 13a. It feels closer in difficulty to a route like Public Solitude than Dream of Poudre or even Landing Strip, but then again, it is a bit reachy and I am not tall. Get on this thing!!!
By Aaron Ramras
Jul 14, 2015
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This route has outstanding climbing in excellent position! It is sustained with two OK rests, and the moves are big and powerful with technical footwork. At 6' tall with an even ape index, I felt stiff 12c was appropriate. For myself, it was harder than Pinklebear but not as hard as Dream of Poudre on the upper tier. If you're shorter, things will be significantly harder. This route deserves more attention...it's every bit as good as the hard routes up above!
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