p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.
p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.
The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.
Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.
4 quickdraws, a few shoulder-length slings, and a couple of small-to-midsize cams should suffice, as I recall.
29-Jan-2012: Steve Rathbun leading Twinkle Toes Tr...