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The Cookie Cliff
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Aftershock T,TR 
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Anathema T 
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Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
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Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
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Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
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Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade aka The Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Twinkie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ray Jardine and Chris Nelson (1973)
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2013

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Description 

This is a good crack climb that doesn't see much attention. It's located on the far left side of the Cookie, with a couple sport routes on either side of it.

The first pitch is a stout 5.8 fist crack up the corner which leads to a cool chimney/tunnel up the interior of the large exfoliation slab. This pitch can be done on it's own, however the descent is a sort of sketchy rappel from slings around a flake/horn. This unappealing rap anchor is shared with the 5.11 sport climb immediately left, and it should probably be retro-fitted with a bolted anchor on the main wall above the exfoliation slab.

To do the second pitch climb up to the narrow ledge above, and traverse about 40ft to the right (leave a couple directionals for your follower). Belay at the base of the obvious offwidth slot to the right of a bay tree.

The second pitch climbs the steep wide crack to the top of the cliff. The difficulty of this pitch is entirely dependent on the size of your body. I'm 5'8" and 130lbs and I found this to be one of the tightest chimneys I've ever actually climbed as a squeeze chimney (with only a couple sections where I needed to briefly bring part of chest out of the crack). If you are any bigger than me you will need to climb outside of the crack in the overhanging flare which will be hard 5.10 and an X-rated lead without Valley Giants. For people smaller than me this will be a comfortable 5.7 squeeze. The top of the pitch wanders up to the left and then cuts back right to a seated belay with a large manzanita for an anchor.

To descend, walk off to the left. It is also possible to rappel Hardd, which finishes a short ways to the right.


Protection 

Pro to 8+ inches. Bring the biggest cam possible for the second pitch. A way tipped-out #6 Camalot can be placed in a constriction about half way up the pitch, but this will be totally insufficient if you are too big to climb it as a squeeze chimney.



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