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> Cookie Cliff
Twinkie
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ray Jardine and Chris Nelson (1973) |
Page Views: | 1,950 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 7, 2013 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a good crack climb that doesn't see much attention. It's located on the far left side of the Cookie, with a couple sport routes on either side of it.
The first pitch is a stout 5.8 fist crack up the corner which leads to a cool chimney/tunnel up the interior of the large exfoliation slab. This pitch can be done on it's own, however the descent is a sort of sketchy rappel from slings around a flake/horn. This unappealing rap anchor is shared with the 5.11 sport climb immediately left, and it should probably be retro-fitted with a bolted anchor on the main wall above the exfoliation slab.
To do the second pitch climb up to the narrow ledge above, and traverse about 40ft to the right (leave a couple directionals for your follower). Belay at the base of the obvious offwidth slot to the right of a bay tree.
The second pitch climbs the steep wide crack to the top of the cliff. The difficulty of this pitch is entirely dependent on the size of your body. I'm 5'8" and 130lbs and I found this to be one of the tightest chimneys I've ever actually climbed as a squeeze chimney (with only a couple sections where I needed to briefly bring part of chest out of the crack). If you are any bigger than me you will need to climb outside of the crack in the overhanging flare which will be hard 5.10 and an X-rated lead without Valley Giants. For people smaller than me this will be a comfortable 5.7 squeeze. The top of the pitch wanders up to the left and then cuts back right to a seated belay with a large manzanita for an anchor.
To descend, walk off to the left. It is also possible to rappel Hardd, which finishes a short ways to the right.
The first pitch is a stout 5.8 fist crack up the corner which leads to a cool chimney/tunnel up the interior of the large exfoliation slab. This pitch can be done on it's own, however the descent is a sort of sketchy rappel from slings around a flake/horn. This unappealing rap anchor is shared with the 5.11 sport climb immediately left, and it should probably be retro-fitted with a bolted anchor on the main wall above the exfoliation slab.
To do the second pitch climb up to the narrow ledge above, and traverse about 40ft to the right (leave a couple directionals for your follower). Belay at the base of the obvious offwidth slot to the right of a bay tree.
The second pitch climbs the steep wide crack to the top of the cliff. The difficulty of this pitch is entirely dependent on the size of your body. I'm 5'8" and 130lbs and I found this to be one of the tightest chimneys I've ever actually climbed as a squeeze chimney (with only a couple sections where I needed to briefly bring part of chest out of the crack). If you are any bigger than me you will need to climb outside of the crack in the overhanging flare which will be hard 5.10 and an X-rated lead without Valley Giants. For people smaller than me this will be a comfortable 5.7 squeeze. The top of the pitch wanders up to the left and then cuts back right to a seated belay with a large manzanita for an anchor.
To descend, walk off to the left. It is also possible to rappel Hardd, which finishes a short ways to the right.
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