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This is a new sport line just around the corner to the left of The Memory of Trees and right of Dark Tower. It is the left of two lines on this steeper buttress, and starts in the same spot as Glennevere, the route to its right. It looks harder than it is, too.
Climb an easy slab to a right-facing flake with a wide crack behind it. Ascend the flake past 2 bolts. Move up to a steeper face with an obvious undercling. Get situated on smaller face holds above this. Find a first crux here where you stretch (for those 5'10" and shorter) up and right to a left-facing flake and walk your feet up. Move up, catch a breath. Find a thin, balancy finish (2nd crux) up and left without a finishing "jug" to the anchors.
7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Nickie Kelly underclinging up to the crux headwall...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...
BETA PHOTO: loose section to watch out for!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
One more I did yesterday. Leo and I again agree on the grade, as I would have guessed 10b for a modern sport grade.
This route was only slightly better than its neighbor. There was a section from about 1/2 way up (starting with the undercling) to about 10' from the top that had some redeeming qualities, but all in all the route was poor.
I'd give it 1 star.
|By Ray Snead|
Sep 2, 2002
Per RR: "Twin Peaks", 10a.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2006
Found it quite awkward at the anchor, no good stance! There is a pretty nice crack a few feet to the left of the route for the second half if one wants to take an easier detour.
Aug 20, 2006
Bummed the anchor was moved, but I am at least glad it was done by the FA crew. The logical route now seems the left line, which removes the route's second crux and perhaps downgrades the route. Perhaps, you just didn't have time, but it seems lame to leave the old bolts. They should be chopped and the holes should be covered if you're going to make the change. Clipping was exciting and fine from the old location.
|By Richard Rossiter|
Sep 2, 2006
Actually, the ring anchors are still at the top of Twin Peaks.
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
One of the better routes at this crag. An aspiring 5.10 leader should hop on this one, as it is an easy tick, and the clips are safe.
Oct 4, 2011
Making the last clip was a little difficult. Go to left as you approach anchors for easiest climbing. Be careful by 1st bolt as there is a large lose block. Overall a fun route. 10a/b.