Twin Peaks 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Vincent Greene, Ben Burnham |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Vincent Greene on Sep 18, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Kristina at the chains after leading "Twin Peaks"....
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Description Directly left of Foul Fowl you will find a bolted route that leads to a set of chains located right below a pair of small "peaks". The first bolt is quite a ways up, but the climbing to reach it is barely 5th class. After that follow the bolts until you reach a big groove below the last bolt. That groove will take a bomber large nut (#8 DMM Wallnut). The crux is on the headwall below the chains, protected by the last bolt.
Protection Bolts, #8 Wallnut, chain anchors clearly visible from ground.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.7+
| FUN ROUTE! If you go over the bulge to the left of the 1st bolt you can add a lower crux, or you can go to the right of the 1st bolt which is much easier. The upper crux is between the last bolt and the chains. There is no place for/need for the "large nut" but that section is no more runout than between the other bolts.
The descriptions here on MP show this as being the left-most route, however, there is a mystery 2 bolts + chains mixed route 10-15 feet left of "Twin Peaks". Dont let the mystery route confuse you. |
By KristinaB
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Started out to the left - this creates the first crux. I went to the right after leading on TR and tried climbing up the right side and this method does away with the crux. Anyhow, there is a nice, big ledge before the top half continues in a V-shape. I did not locate a good place to put gear as stated in "Squeezing the Lemmon" and the bolts were not any more run-out than the others - five bolts total. The second crux is towards the top as there are few holds and very small holds. Super fun route - not to be confused with the mystery route to the left. Make sure to look above the chains for route potential to the summit!! |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.7+
| Emailed the FA's and they added a bolt to replace the nut placement. This is now a 100% SPORT route. |
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