Twin Peaks via Broads Fork  Mod. Snow

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Type:  Snow, Alpine, Grade III FA:  ? Season:  When snow is stable. Submitted By:  kBobby on Apr 13, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The following assumes a snow ascent.

From the beaver pond in Broads Fork, either continue south to the saddle between Sunrise Peak and the Twins, or head west up Bonkers, the 1800' gully. In either case, beware that the quartzite slabs just below Twin Peaks often slide very big.

via the saddle: Once you gain the saddle, head north along the ridge to the summit. If you stay on the ridge the whole way, there is a spot of easy 5th class rock climbing (20 feet) to pass a gendarme. Or you can drop down to the left above the Lisa Falls couloir and stay on snow past the gendarme.

via Bonkers: At the top of Bonkers is the head of Stairs Gulch. Turn left and head up toward the tip of the pyramid, skirting east as you near the top. Stay mostly on the ridge above Deaf Smith and Fergusen canyons, or drop west off the ridge to avoid the rock bands.

Descent: either back the way you came, or continue in the other direction. I think via the Sunrise saddle is the easier descent as the glissading is less steep. If you have skis, do Bonkers! You can link this with Sunrise and Dromedary peaks.

Protection 

In snow, you will probably want an axe and crampons.