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 ADVANCED
Twin Owls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bloop T 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Copperhead 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Rattler 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
Viper 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

Twin Owls 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.4029, -105.5188 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 104,156
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jun 4, 2002
Forecast:
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Clear
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Clear
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
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Twin Owls.
Photo by Blitzo.
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.

Check the closures before heading here.


Getting There 

From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach.


Climbing Season


41 Total Routes


['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',6],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twin Owls:
Pin Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Organ Pipes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Central Chimney   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
East Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wolf's Tooth   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Conan's Gonads (Conad's)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Tiger's Tooth   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Rather Fight Than Switch   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Jamesia Jam   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Crack of Fear   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Peaches and Cream   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R     Trad, Aid   
Autumn Mist   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2     Aid, 3 pitches   
Anaconda   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad   
Browse More Classics in Twin Owls

Featured Route For Twin Owls
Filming on the Crack of Fear August 8, 2002.  Unknown party.

Crack of Fear 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
This is the hardest climb I have ever done. I can offer a first-hand account of the first two pitches only (we rapped due to the onset of darkness). However, the third pitch could not be more obvious, and if you can do the crux second pitch you should have no problems with it, according to my partner who had done the route previously.Hike up the Gem Lake trail past a huge boulder, and take the left-hand approach path for Bowls of the Owls and Hen and Chickens Rock. Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Twin Owls
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News
Aug 29 Bentgate Is Hiring: Backcountry Ski Tech 0
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Photos of Twin Owls Slideshow Add Photo
Gary on summit of Twin Owls
BETA PHOTO: Gary on summit of Twin Owls
Twin Owls. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Twin Owls.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO
Twin Owls at sunset.
BETA PHOTO: Twin Owls at sunset.
Twin Owls summit.
Twin Owls summit.
The Owl area.  <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci
The Owl area.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Aspen glory.
Aspen glory.
The Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge as seen from afar. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2002.
The Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge as seen from afar. Ph...
Twin Owls in May.
Twin Owls in May.
Comments on Twin Owls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2005

I have always found the descriptions to the descent of the "[Bowels] of the [Owls]" somewhat confusing . Basically you head down what seems to start out to be straightforward easy class 4 down climb from the low point grassy area between the two summits. When u cliff out look to your left for rap slings around a boulder. You will be peering down what looks like a vertical cave about 25 feet deep. You can downclimb it but the walls are a little slick and quite often wet. You will probably want to lower any packs/ropes etc. down the well first as it is quite narrow. Once you make it safely down the well, you are basically down to terra firma. There is a great trail down the eastern side (You can also hike down the western side) which eventually joins the [Gem Lake] trail.

By Danny
Oct 24, 2005

Comment on the descent. If you are going up for the first time be sure you know where the Bowls are b/c if you descend in the wrong chimney it will be bad. My first time up there I accidentally descended the Central Chimney thinking it was the Bowels-honest mistake. Anyway this turned out to be a mini epic that could have resulted in much worse than the slings and rings I ended up leaving.

By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2009

The Bowels decent is straightforward but avoid the chimney cave. There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under a large block descender's right and just before the cave on the Bowels of the Owls decent. Basically instead of stepping left around a ledge to get to the cave, go straight to where it cliffs out and look under the large flat block.

This rap is clean and does not require going in the chimney as I have heard reported elsewhere. There is an anchent bolt stub on this block so apparently its not a new idea.

This is much easier than spelunking in the cave. 50 m rope is fine.