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 ADVANCED
f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

Twin Oaks 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Gardiner and Mary Perry (1957)
Page Views: 1,640
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Paul Deagle - Twin Oaks 5.3

Description 

The first pitch is nice and a good first lead. The second pitch wanders around the face above, and I have never been able to tell exactly where it goes. I prefer P2 of Triple Bulges.

P1 - Climb up the nice face for 10-15 feet (crux) past a couple horizontals to the obvious crack. Climb the crack and/or face to the left for a few feet, then finish up the face either to the left or right of the crack. Rappel from a tree ~15' left.

P2 - William's describes it, but I have never been able to follow it. I won't plagiarize Williams' description and will try to add this if I ever figure it out.

Location 

Past Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, at the right edge of the Guide's Wall; Twin Oaks is the next crack right of the striking Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.


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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Agree that this is a difficult route to figure out the line...it seems to kinda wander a bit up the easy ledges. However, it can be easy to get off route on harder stuff.
By rogerbenton
Apr 14, 2013

First pitch is great, I could do that for another 150'. Totally "G".