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Paul Deagle - Twin Oaks 5.3
The first pitch is nice and a good first lead. The second pitch wanders around the face above, and I have never been able to tell exactly where it goes. I prefer P2 of Triple Bulges
P1 - Climb up the nice face for 10-15 feet (crux) past a couple horizontals to the obvious crack. Climb the crack and/or face to the left for a few feet, then finish up the face either to the left or right of the crack. Rappel from a tree ~15' left.
P2, described by John
: From the P1 belay terrace, climb the pebbly face straight up to the next large ledge. Step left about 7 ft. Look up at the short, arcing left facing corner capped by a small overhang. Now you can't possibly get lost. Climb the corner, exit the overhang on thin holds. Trend up and slightly left to the long small overhang with a ring piton. At the piton, climb straight up to the large overhanging ledges. One tricky move at a flake gets you onto the juggy overhangs. Take the path of least resistance, slightly left, through the overhangs on jugs (5.3 G). Manage your rope drag carefully, since the pitch is 150 ft, plus another 30 ft to a good belay tree at the top.
Standard Gunks rack.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Agree that this is a difficult route to figure out the line...it seems to kinda wander a bit up the easy ledges. However, it can be easy to get off route on harder stuff.
Apr 14, 2013
First pitch is great, I could do that for another 150'. Totally "G".
From: Montclair, NJ
Sep 29, 2014
A fun 5.3 with a several thin moves to keep it spicy. This is the best easy line at the guide's wall. The route is obvious. The description Dick Williams even tells you where the pitons are and where to belay.
Thanks for adding a description for P2 - I moved it to the route description. -JSH