Unlike the other double crack climbs that work up a face between two pillars, Twin Cracks climbs two cracks that are fairly close together in a corner. Felt harder than the 5.6 rating, and much more difficult than it's neighbor - Double Trouble. Climb up easy, lower angled rock to a small ledge on the left side. Above this point, the climb is sustained with few rests. Jam up the two cracks - stemming options are limited. Great gear throughout.
West end of the wall, climbs the double cracks just to the left of Double Trouble.
Large stoppers and cams to 4 inches (an old 4.5 Camalot is useful farther up). all of the way up - a #4.5 Camalot is useful higher up. There are some ratty slings hidden around a boulder at the top, but they were in bad shape with no rap rings. A better option would be to scramble to the top and walk off, or stay roped up and traverse to the anchors above Ignorant Pursuit. Not a good route to top rope.
Starting up Twin Cracks
Climbing Twin Cracks
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I felt like this route was a pretty stiff rating. I have been able to lead 5.8 crack other places and just about peed my pants a little bit on this one. If you are looking for an easy first lead it may not be the crack for you.
4 days ago
Also found this to be a tough lead for 5.6. The climbing is pretty straight forward but the protection is tricky and makes it feel more difficult. No anchors on top as of April 13, 2014 (which was an unfortunate surprise to me!) I equalized two stoppers above this for a directional, traversed over to the 2 bolt anchor 15 feet right, and belayed my second up to there.