BETA PHOTO: Twin Cracks climbs the parallel cracks on the left...
Unlike the other double crack climbs that work up a face between two pillars, Twin Cracks climbs two cracks that are fairly close together in a corner. Felt harder than the 5.6 rating, and much more difficult than it's neighbor - Double Trouble. Climb up easy, lower angled rock to a small ledge on the left side. Above this point, the climb is sustained with few rests. Jam up the two cracks - stemming options are limited. Great gear throughout.
West end of the wall, climbs the double cracks just to the left of Double Trouble.
Large stoppers and cams to 4 inches (an old 4.5 Camalot is useful farther up). all of the way up - a #4.5 Camalot is useful higher up. There are some ratty slings hidden around a boulder at the top, but they were in bad shape with no rap rings. A better option would be to scramble to the top and walk off, or stay roped up and traverse to the anchors above Ignorant Pursuit. Not a good route to top rope.
Starting up Twin Cracks
Climbing Twin Cracks
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I felt like this route was a pretty stiff rating. I have been able to lead 5.8 crack other places and just about peed my pants a little bit on this one. If you are looking for an easy first lead it may not be the crack for you.