Twin Cracks 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Season: | Spring/Fall |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Jun 17, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Twin Cracks climbs the parallel cracks on the left...
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Description Unlike the other double crack climbs that work up a face between two pillars, Twin Cracks climbs two cracks that are fairly close together in a corner. Felt harder than the 5.6 rating, and much more difficult than it's neighbor - Double Trouble. Climb up easy, lower angled rock to a small ledge on the left side. Above this point, the climb is sustained with few rests. Jam up the two cracks - stemming options are limited. Great gear throughout.
Location West end of the wall, climbs the double cracks just to the left of Double Trouble.
Protection Large stoppers and cams to 4 inches (an old 4.5 Camalot is useful farther up). all of the way up - a #4.5 Camalot is useful higher up. There are some ratty slings hidden around a boulder at the top, but they were in bad shape with no rap rings. A better option would be to scramble to the top and walk off, or stay roped up and traverse to the anchors above Ignorant Pursuit. Not a good route to top rope.
Starting up Twin Cracks
| Climbing Twin Cracks
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By Breanne From: Seattle, WA Aug 12, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| I felt like this route was a pretty stiff rating. I have been able to lead 5.8 crack other places and just about peed my pants a little bit on this one. If you are looking for an easy first lead it may not be the crack for you. |
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