||Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA (aid) Lance & Dane Dougherty (A.1, 5.3) '68, FFA Jim Waugh, Dylan Williams '80 (2 pitches @ no hands rest) 1 pitch H. Suzuki '84|
|Season: ||seasonal closures|
|Page Views: ||1,469|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007|
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50 feet off ground on right side of Flying Buttress is a large ledge. climb either hidden chimney (outside end) 5th class or p1 of Coke Bottle to ledge. Twin Cracks are the cracks. Fine face climbing around the cracks leads up to the no hands rest 12' below top out (11-). The rock quality deteriorates slightly as hard lie backing leads to the top (11+/12-).
right side of flying buttress, one pitch up.
small nuts to medium camming units. Tree or friends for belay
By Kyle J. Kent
Dec 29, 2008
This climb was INCREDIBLE fun!!! Mostly Granite Mountain 5.10/11- crack climbing to a tough sloping finger layback. The climb could use a little bit of cleaning because it isn't traveled too much. There are some grainy flakes on the right side approaching the crux section and some plants/grass after the crux (DOH!).
Highly, highly reccommended.