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Follow the cracks.
The crux is at the top of the two parallel cracks under a roof to traverse right (crux), then pull onto a face onto a ledge to bolted anchor P1, belay. Then up to the top of the Lower Grotto Wall belay P2.
This is easy to find, the two "twin cracks" left of Cryogenics.
Trad, well-protected, bring some long runners though.
Luke on the eponymous (had to look that word up--I...
Protecting the crux at the roof.
Pulling the juggy hang to the ledge. The chains ar...
Carl P in the Twin Cracks.
Bustin' the crux moves.
Steep, juggy pulls to the anchor.
Leading up Twin Cracks.
From: Golden, CO
Sep 13, 2009
Great route. High quality. This route had it all: jams, stemming, jugs, and a spicy traverse. Great to new leader, good gear the whole way.
Feb 13, 2011
Yes, I remember thinking that traverse was a little spicy for 5.8. Very fun.