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 ADVANCED
Supercrack Buttress
Routes Sorted
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24 Variation 
24 Unknown 
3AM Crack 
Amaretto Corner 
Anasazi 
Bad Rad Duality 
Binge and Purge 
Bongo Flake 
Coyne Crack 
Fat Free 
Fingers In A Lightsocket 
Gorilla 
Incredible Hand Crack 
International Affair 
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On-Slot, The 
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Pink Flamingo 
Pringles 
Savelli Crack 
super bubbushka 
Super Surprised 
Supercrack of the Desert 
Supershack 
Too Much Cake 
Triple Jeopardy 
Twin Cracks 
Unknown 
Unknown on far left side of wall 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake 
Unnamed 
Wave, The 
Wild Works of Fire 
Zow 
Unsorted Routes:

Twin Cracks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,284
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Sep 27, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (188)
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twin cracks

Description 

A beautiful fun route, and the easiest crack system on Supercrack Buttress. There's a good bit of liebacking on the smaller crack and then jamming and laddering on the wider to good anchors 40' up. It's not a classic and hence usually open; well worthwhile for climbing as a moderate on the buttress or while waiting for other climbs on the north end.

Climb up the main trail to Incredible Hand Crack and head N (left) about 80'. If you hit a leaning pillar at 130', you've gone about 40' too far - head back past a large bush. The little crack is in a right-facing dihedral, and the larger crack becomes the primary about 20' up. Good anchors, good toprope or something to play on when you're waiting or pumped from more serious endeavours.

It's a very good route, but only rates 2 stars because of the stellar stuff surrounding it.


Protection 

Double rack plus of #1 to #3 camalots for the short route should suffice. The left crack takes the small gear early, then the right takes the larger stuff later.



Photos of Twin Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Wendy leading twin cracks.
Wendy leading twin cracks.
Jonah wilkey leading twin cracks
Jonah wilkey leading twin cracks
Real men...haloween 2012
Real men...haloween 2012
Me on Twin Cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Me on Twin Cracks.
bh at the top of twin cracks.
bh at the top of twin cracks.
my first creek lead
my first creek lead
first lead in the creek!
first lead in the creek!
Nearing the anchors, 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the anchors, 1st pitch
Starting up Twin Cracks.  Great jams!
Starting up Twin Cracks. Great jams!
Suzy Williams on lead. <br /> <br />This is a short pitch, fun to do while waiting for one of the other classic climbs around the corner
Suzy Williams on lead.

This is a short pitch, fun...
Comments on Twin Cracks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2014
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 6, 2002

Every time I've been to IC there have been gaggles of people hanging on Twin Cracks all day long. It seems to be the favorite entry level climb.

I'm also a little confused about the rating. Maybe 5.8 or 5.8+. It seems far easier than other nines in the area. For example, Generic Crack is called 5.9+. To me, Generic should be rated at least a full grade more difficult than Twin Cracks.

By KPRTX
Mar 23, 2002

Great crack, easily protected and not too sustained. I will also add I would place it at a 5.8 or 5.8+ Its easy to get away without actually climbing the crack for those unexperianced indian creek cracksters like myself.

By Friso Schlottau
Mar 31, 2002

Just got back from my second trip out there, and I HIGHLY recommend this as a first climb in the area. Twin Cracks is awsome, but NOTE: RIGHT HANGER IS LOOSE!

By Darin Lang
Apr 16, 2002

I agree that this is an excellent climb, and a good introduction to the area. I would also call it 5.8+ at most, whether you use the cracks or not. Probably closer to 5.8 if you use the cracks - once located, the jams are reassuringly bomber all the way up (unless you have small hands - then you might have an off-fist or two at the top with good face holds for your right hand), and good rests are easily located.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

If you are looking for a 5.8, you only have a few options so do the route, but it's just not that good compared to the splitters.

Only the top is a little burly, but it's short.

By brian benjamin weinstein
Mar 23, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

short, but a nice warm up to others in the area.

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Oct 3, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

this is a fun route

By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Poor little crack don't get no respect. Anyway, I protected it with 2 #3 Cammies at the ends and 2 #2's in in the middle. The climbing is so incredibly positive, you really don't need pro until the thing splits. At least I thought so.

By natcat03
Dec 1, 2008

The right bolt is now GONE. One bolt remains at the anchor.
Fun, easy climb.

By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009

Awesome warm-up if you wake up EARLY.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Many climbs here seem to have sandbag grades (especially for an over-the-hill slab climber) but this is a very soft touch. Barely 5.8 - Hard Severe 4b in Yorkshire.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 14, 2010

i put in 2 bolt this rocktober. lets keep it safe.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Wouldn't you know? The (new) right hanger is spinin', just like it's brethren past...

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2011

Fun climb. Did the left option at the top as forgot the 4 in the parking. Maybe slightly stiffer this way but definitely still fun. Lots of big rope grooves at the top from it being top roped. Solid 5.8

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Anyone know about that second pitch? It looks enticing - especially climbing the OW variation behind the flake, assuming you can protect it!

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2012

Fun, easy lead! Bring a #4 so you can exit the right crack below the anchor. I had to run this out because I didn't bring it...

By Michael Swartz
Sep 4, 2013

Second pitch: it's very good, a little harder than the first pitch. Bring a #4 C4 and bump it or bring two of them and you'll be fine (also several 3s, I believe). Mostly laybacking in the beginning, with multiple cracks to choose from at times.

By Casey Graham
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 25, 2013

Agreed, the second pitch is a bit more stiff. 5.10ish? It's a cool 3 dimensional pitch, but I definitely though that flake was scary. Sounds super hollow and weak. We protected the pitch with smaller stuff in the broken cracks to the left (mostly nuts if I remember correctly).

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Got some good fist over fist jamming practice at the top. So I thought it was worth trying! Fun little climb to warm-up on or finish the day with.