Twin Cracks Left
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Twin Cracks Left (and Twin Cracks Right) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes left into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes right). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly hands and fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out left (where you are going anyway).
This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches left at the undercling.
QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Climb to a great ledge at the top of the crack. There is no fixed anchor, but two finger-sized cracks 4 feet above the ledge provide excellent gear anchors. Belay up your partner and walk off...or rappel 100 feet from a tree just south of the belay ledge. This tree has no slings and rings at time of writing.
The route maker's tools of the trade.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
Peter Dillon working up the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...
BETA PHOTO: Loose section...be careful.
|Comments on Twin Cracks Left
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Longer and more varied than Twin Cracks Right. My partner clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before moving left. Fun moves up the crack and arete. Near the top of the crack, he angled right to the anchor on Twin Peaks and lowered from there. I followed and cleaned the pitch. I think many people will do the climb this way instead of continuing up to the ledge and building a gear anchor.
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Clipping the 3 bolts is not required for this climb. A yellow and blue Metolius as well as a large (3 or 4) sized cam protect the lower section.
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Surprisingly good! Crack is all but invisible from the ground but magically appears once you reach the undercling. Super solid jams and pretty clean rock. Do it!