Jamie on the approach to the twin coves climbing a...
Located just North of Jenner, this peninsula area is a gorgeous place to spend a day. This peninsula is also known as The Fortress of Solitude. The climbing in the area is mostly bouldering, though there are also some sport climbs and top rope options. Currently about 15 rocks have been climbed or bouldered. Some rocks could be developed with more bolted routes, and there is evidence that the largest rock once was toproped, but the bolts on top of it are rusty and spinning.
The rock of Twin Coves is primarily schist, though some of the bouldering rocks and caves to the north are hardened sandstone. Few of the routes contain solid rock, however, most of the rock is loose and brittle.
For many years the larger rocks of the area were soled, and only recently has development of the area made climbing the larger rocks safer with the addition of modern bolts. Bouldering in the area offers some interesting eliminates along the beach with soft sand landings, and some highball and traverse problems with mostly bad landings up on the bulge with the sport rock on it.
Walk offs are the best bet on most routes and rocks, though a rappell or lower is needed for the bolted rock.
As with most bay area areas, the place is infested with poison oak. So, beware of it on rocks, paths and any place else you might find yourself.
Some of the bouldering is tide dependant, and climbing the seaside routes in the middle of a large swell is not a good idea.
Camping is not allowed in the area, and you will probably get a ticket for attempting to do so.
Fisherman are prevalent in the area, as are seals, so be respectful and keep a low profile.
Approach time: About 10 minutes.
To reach The Twin Coves, head north on 101 from essentially anywhere in the bay area. Upon reaching the town of Petaluma, take the East Washington exit. Go left and drive west, over the freeway. When Washington intersects Highway 116, it turns into Bodega Avenue. Keep on Bodega for about 25 miles, and it will become highway 1 - Northbound. Keep on Highway 1, through Bodega Bay, and into Jenner. At the intersection of hwy 116 (same highway as in Petaluma, it just winds a LOT) and Hwy 1, you have 3.2 miles until two unmarked pullouts on your left, where you should park in the second larger pullout. These pullouts are just after a sharp right turn.
From the pullout, walk North along the highway past one gully leading to the ocean, to a second gully which literally comes up to the highway. On the other side of this gully a thin trail will pickup leading you parallel to the highway for about 100 yards. You will come to a junction, where a wider (but still thin) path heads directly for the ocean. Follow this path downhill along the ridge, where the largest rocks of the Twin Coves will become evident.
Walk down to the beach, and either up to the main rocks, or walk Northeast or Southeast along the beach for more bouldering options. The main sport rock is around to the right about 75 yards back from the transition from hillside to bulge.
The mapquest map IS the Twin Coves peninsula.
Browse More Classics in Twin Coves
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twin Coves:
Featured Route For Twin Coves
Wrist Slitter Traverse
V3 R CA
: SF Bay Area
: ... : Sport Rock (aka North Point...
This is the best problem we found at Twin Coves.Starting 20' left and downhill from the beginning of Seagull arete you will find an overhung section that allows for a great bouldering traverse. Start on the large jug in the slot, and move steadily uphill on the arete. Continue uphill with hands and feet on the arete and mantle out just before the large bulge around the corner from Seagull Arete.The final moves are guaranteed to slit your wrist....[more] Browse More Classics in CA