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Sacred Cow Wall
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Twin Cam 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Hayden Kennedy on Feb 19, 2013
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Description 

Awesome route! A little harder than Sacred Cow and it has some sandy jams for sure. The crux is a strange roof section midway up the pitch, after that the climbing is 5.11+


Location 

Just to the right of Sacred Cow.


Protection 

Varied gear from thin fingers to hands. Heavy on yellow to red TCU size pieces.



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By chris Kalous
Nov 21, 2013

Cleaned up the anchor on this route. Chained the old, seemingly solid Hong bolts, and added a 1/2" x 6" daddy to boot.

The route is also nice and clean at the moment.

HK's description above is typical of somebody that climbs too hard for his own good;)

The gear rec in the book- including the 12 green camalots is pretty good. To give you an idea, in Camalots, I redpointed it with 2 greys, 2 purps, 12 greens, 2 reds, 1 gold. But that's a redpoint rack that I paired down.

Lowering with an 80m gets close enough, but you have to be careful, and down climb from the pillar at the start. 70 would be for sure TOO SHORT.

Anyway, stay frosty after the roof, it might be a wee bit harder still than ".11+" in the above description.

Overall, nearly as good as Sacred Cow if clean, perhaps a scosh harder- more cruxy, anyway.