|By chris Kalous|
Nov 21, 2013
Cleaned up the anchor on this route. Chained the old, seemingly solid Hong bolts, and added a 1/2" x 6" daddy to boot.
The route is also nice and clean at the moment.
HK's description above is typical of somebody that climbs too hard for his own good;)
The gear rec in the book- including the 12 green camalots is pretty good. To give you an idea, in Camalots, I redpointed it with 2 greys, 2 purps, 12 greens, 2 reds, 1 gold. But that's a redpoint rack that I paired down.
Lowering with an 80m gets close enough, but you have to be careful, and down climb from the pillar at the start. 70 would be for sure TOO SHORT.
Anyway, stay frosty after the roof, it might be a wee bit harder still than ".11+" in the above description.
Overall, nearly as good as Sacred Cow if clean, perhaps a scosh harder- more cruxy, anyway.