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Twin Brothers

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Twin Brothers Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,850'
Page Views: 9,660
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 15, 2008
This Afternoon

42° | 22°
Thanksgiving Day

30° | 23°

37° | 20°

38° | 19°

36° | 18°

42° | 20°
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BETA PHOTO: N.W. face of Twin Brothers 1. Peyote Dreams VI 5...

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is the Dark, North West facing wall 1 mile up the main canyon from the "Y" intersection that forks off to Mt. Carmel Tunnel. Twin Brothers is 800' to 1,600' high. Aid climbing prevails here typically following thin crack systems on good rock. Steve Chardon and Dave Jones made the first ascent (Lost in Transit) of this face via the lower right hand buttress in 1983. The bigger, main face (Peyote Dreams) was first climbed in 1994 by Eric Rasmussen & Sean Plunkett.

Getting There 

From the road, hike up the talus to the base of the wall. Takes about 1/2 hour.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Twin Brothers

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Twin Brothers:
Ancient Gallery   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 950'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Twin Brothers

Featured Route For Twin Brothers
Rock Climbing Photo: Kim Miller cleaning pitch 5 in April of 2000

Ancient Gallery 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3  UT : Zion National Park : Twin Brothers
This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The la...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Oct 31, 2008
Approach: There are two main drainage systems coming down from the cliff. Take the left drainage (leads to the base of Peyote Dreams), NOT the drainage to the right. Bust right a little more than 3/4 of the way up the drainage to find a faint trail marked with carins. (there is not really any "talus" as stated above)
By burlap submariner
Dec 4, 2009
Has anybody done or have "light" beta for Peyote Dreams? Planning a trip in spring of 10', and deciding what to do.
By burlap submariner
Dec 29, 2009
leave my plants alone craig.....jk

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