The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
This is the Dark, North West facing wall 1 mile up the main canyon from the "Y" intersection that forks off to Mt. Carmel Tunnel. Twin Brothers is 800' to 1,600' high. Aid climbing prevails here typically following thin crack systems on good rock. Steve Chardon and Dave Jones made the first ascent (Lost in Transit) of this face via the lower right hand buttress in 1983. The bigger, main face (Peyote Dreams) was first climbed in 1994 by Eric Rasmussen & Sean Plunkett.
From the road, hike up the talus to the base of the wall. Takes about 1/2 hour.
This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The la...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Approach: There are two main drainage systems coming down from the cliff. Take the left drainage (leads to the base of Peyote Dreams), NOT the drainage to the right. Bust right a little more than 3/4 of the way up the drainage to find a faint trail marked with carins. (there is not really any "talus" as stated above)