The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
This is the Dark, North West facing wall 1 mile up the main canyon from the "Y" intersection that forks off to Mt. Carmel Tunnel. Twin Brothers is 800' to 1,600' high. Aid climbing prevails here typically following thin crack systems on good rock. Steve Chardon and Dave Jones made the first ascent (Lost in Transit) of this face via the lower right hand buttress in 1983. The bigger, main face (Peyote Dreams) was first climbed in 1994 by Eric Rasmussen & Sean Plunkett.
From the road, hike up the talus to the base of the wall. Takes about 1/2 hour.
The route climbs the right side of Right Twin Brother...right of Ancient Gallery. P1 climb up to the bushy ledge via a splitter C1/ 5.7 set a belay then do a scramble P2 up to the base of a blank wall with a chocolate corner above. P3 "Tha Peace Test" climb up through thin flakes and features to a rivet/ hole ladder to the Organic Belay at the bnase of a left facing chocolate arch A3+ don't f*ck up. P$ climb the sweet chocolate corner to a pendulum left into a left facing crack system A2+. P5 cl...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Approach: There are two main drainage systems coming down from the cliff. Take the left drainage (leads to the base of Peyote Dreams), NOT the drainage to the right. Bust right a little more than 3/4 of the way up the drainage to find a faint trail marked with carins. (there is not really any "talus" as stated above)