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Twin Brothers

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Lost in Transit 

Twin Brothers 


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Elevation: 6,850'
Page Views: 8,234
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 15, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: N.W. face of Twin Brothers

1. Peyote Dreams VI 5...
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the Dark, North West facing wall 1 mile up the main canyon from the "Y" intersection that forks off to Mt. Carmel Tunnel. Twin Brothers is 800' to 1,600' high. Aid climbing prevails here typically following thin crack systems on good rock. Steve Chardon and Dave Jones made the first ascent (Lost in Transit) of this face via the lower right hand buttress in 1983. The bigger, main face (Peyote Dreams) was first climbed in 1994 by Eric Rasmussen & Sean Plunkett.


Getting There 

From the road, hike up the talus to the base of the wall. Takes about 1/2 hour.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twin Brothers:
Ancient Gallery   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 950'   
Browse More Classics in Twin Brothers

Featured Route For Twin Brothers
Kim Miller cleaning pitch 5 in April of 2000

Ancient Gallery 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b A3  UT : Zion National Park : Twin Brothers
This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The la...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Twin Brothers Add Comment
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By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Oct 31, 2008

Approach: There are two main drainage systems coming down from the cliff. Take the left drainage (leads to the base of Peyote Dreams), NOT the drainage to the right. Bust right a little more than 3/4 of the way up the drainage to find a faint trail marked with carins. (there is not really any "talus" as stated above)

By burlap submariner
Dec 4, 2009

Has anybody done or have "light" beta for Peyote Dreams? Planning a trip in spring of 10', and deciding what to do.

By burlap submariner
Dec 29, 2009

leave my plants alone craig.....jk