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This is one of the finest offwidths in the Valley. Seldom do you find routes of such quality and provenance. Chuck Pratt's revolutionary ascent of this masterpiece remains one of the greatest ascents in Valley history. The climb protects easily with large cams and the crux tends to be the continuous building overall energy expenditure you will have to summon over the route. Good technique is imperative but does not make the route pedestrian.
Begin climbing through fingers in a corner. Climb over a strenuous bulge and immediately reach right for a good rail. Mantle and move around the corner onto a good stance with old slings nearby. I like to set up a belay here to reduce rope drag and allow the belayer to see the leader throughout the rest of the climb.
From here the route is obvious. About 30ft of easy chimney, 30ft of 7inch crack, and 30ft of 5inch crack. 1-2 of the two largest C4s or Friends will protect the majority of the route. BigBros are not necessary. Generally the route narrows as you ascend so keep a few 1-3 inch pieces for the top.
Follow the old road up and left to its end. From there follow a trail up and further left to the wall containing outer limits and crack-a-go-go. Tunnel under a large wedged boulder into the alcove on the right side of the wall. The route starts on the right (south) side of the alcove in a finger crack.
Descent: Since there are no anchors near the top of this climb it is easiest to traverse to the chains atop elevator shaft (single rope 100ft rap). Be careful accessing these anchors.
Single set of cams from 4. to 3 inches. Doubles from 3.5-7 inches. Anchors are 30ft back from the top of the route so an extra rope or very long slings are needed for a TR.
Taping your ankles and various other parts of your body you wish to retain skin on are optional.
|Comments on Twilight Zone
From: San Jose
Apr 26, 2010
The route description above recommended to start the climb as left variation and differ from how is depicted in Reid/ST book. But I did see that other parties started this way from bottom of Cookie Monster , instead of doing first pitch 5.9 Proper. Any advantage of this? How hard this strenuous hand bulge approach pitch?
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Oct 17, 2010
I used a couple of hand-size pieces for the approach pitch that Karsten describes.
To belay up your second to the stance below the OW, the anchor takes some more hand-size cams and a medium nut.
For the OW, I used the following, in order: 2ea 6 C4, 1 ea 4.5 camalot, 1ea 4 C4, 1ea 4 Friend (~3.5 camalot size), 1ea 3 camalot, 1ea 1 camalot.
Once past the 7" crack, my partner chimneyed the rest of the route. Seemed strenuous but doable beta, and placing gear would be even easier.
To descend we rapped off the anchors for the Elevator Shaft, then swung over to the P1 anchors for Outer Limits.
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks, 9/1965