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Twilight Zone 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Baxter et al. (aid) FFA: Ed Webster, Larry Coats (mid 70's)
Page Views: 1,894
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006

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Steve Grossman cruises out from under the initial ...

Description 

The Twilight Zone crack sits in a small alcove about 100 yards south of the barb wire fence. Climb a moderate slab with small gear to the back of the alcove. From here powerful face climbing leads to nice hand and fist jams up the steep crack. The moves out of the alcove are difficult to protect.

This route stays dry in a light rain.

Rappel from a tree or take the walk down 100' to the climber's right.

Protection 

1 set TCU's
2 x #1 Camalot
2 x #2 Camalot
1 x #3 Camalot
1 x #3.5 Camalot
Stoppers
Slings and Draws


Photos of Twilight Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Ed Webster pulling the final moves on the first free ascent of Twilight Zone (1976).
Ed Webster pulling the final moves on the first fr...
Mark Force @ the knee lock rest
Mark Force @ the knee lock rest
Twilight Zone Route Overview
BETA PHOTO: Twilight Zone Route Overview

Comments on Twilight Zone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

FA: Scott Baxter et al. as an aid climb, FFA: Ed Webster, Larry Coats (mid 70's)
By Dean Hoffman
Oct 29, 2007

Climbed this route recently and thought it was fantastic, while a bit heady definitely one of the most classic routes at W.E.. Definitely recomend it. Long slings, maybe a double length runner for protecting the back of the alcove.
By Colin Cox
Jul 4, 2010

Definitely one of the best at West Elden.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 21, 2010

Very good climbing though sharp jams. I spent the time to tape up, and glad I did.
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 27, 2012

Got on this one again today and was reminded just how burley it is. What a great climb...
By Flex
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2014

There is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this route. We left cord and a locking biner to back up the existing webbing. It could use some quicklinks and some chain as the bolts face the opposite side of the fin at the top of the route.

Fantastic Climb!